And besides, county fairs themselves are about as rural American as you can get, along with huntin', fishin', fahmin' and maple syrupin'. And that's not just to be cliche'd about it. Fairs grew up as exhibitions especially for the farmers. These days the midway rides, shyster games and cotton candy have taken over, but generally half a fair is old school, livestock exhibitions, prize vegetables, horse, ox and tractor pulls, 4-H and a bluegrass band or two.
I'm not saying anything new to anyone from New England, or from further abroad where nature plays much of a role in daily life. Last summer, working in Alaska, I was treated to the weeklong extravaganza known as the Alaska State Fair, just like the Sandwich Fair only about 10 or 20 times as big, and including a demolition derby. Plus, I'll always have a fond spot in my heart for the 4-H exhibit by the teenage girl about slaughtering pigs, which included photos of her picking up a blood-covered knee from one of the dead animals and making like it was a football, or a microphone:
Now that's personality. I admire that.
Kate's no stranger to the harvest-season fair either, having grown up in the general vicinity of the Fryeburg Fair, which ranks between Sandwich and Alaska, but closer to Sandwich, for size. (And for the record, I've never been to one of the really giant fairs in the midwest, like in Kansas or Nebraska or Oklahoma or Texas. All I can say about those is based on an essay by the late (and great) nature essayist, Noel Perrin. He wrote an essay on, I think, the Kansas State Fair, entitled "773 Prizes for Sheep". Enough said.) So I'm dealing with the pipsqueak fairs anyway, even including Alaska (which isn't exactly one of the breadbasket states). But still. In some sense, a fair's a fair and I've been to plenty.
Kate didn't go to any last year, recovering as she was from birth, and Eva still being too small and delicate to spend long periods of time out of doors. (Infants are a lot tougher than their parents generally give them credit for, but then again, why go testing their limits merely for the fun of it? If Kate honestly had no choice but to be outdoors all day with a newborn Eva strapped to her back--say, actually harvesting back in the colonial days--I'm willing to bet Eva would've turned out just fine. Even healthier maybe, for exposure to the air. But neither of us feel like playing with our child's well-being quite so aggressively. Anyway...)
So there's this fair. It takes place in Sandwich, NH, about ten miles north of the house I grew up in. Sandwich is a small--quiet is kind of loud compared to what that town is like--town just south of the White Mountains, and it's been deliberately kept almost comatose by the landowners there, who steadfastly oppose any road connecting their town to the ski mecca just to the north. Sandwich is dominated by wealthy landowners, many industrialists from Boston and elsewhere, and this little town is their retreat. There is a lot of wealth and intelligence sequestered among the pines there, so much that it's sometimes jokingly referred to as the "Athens of the north".
Growing up, I visited Sandwich once a year: for the fair. When I was a twerp, it was billed as "New England's Biggest One-Day Fair!", and we'd be up by 5:30, putting on thermal underwear, long socks and heavy boots, driving up bumpy old Sheridan Road in a freezing cold station wagon, parking along the roadside and walking the last mile or so to the front gate of the fair.
I mean, we earned it.
Now it's a three-day blowout, there's four times as much parking in the surrounding fields, and since winter has virtually disappeared shorts, sneakers and sweatshirts are the most common clothes for kids. Saturday, however, it was actually somewhat cold, in the 60s and breezy, so when a cloud came between us and the sun, it was downright chilly. Even so, there hadn't been a trace of frost, and it was so dry that the normally ubiquitous mud was nowhere to be seen.
Despite all that, the Fair was the Fair, and I hadn't been in close to a decade. For my part, after a big honking portion of fried dough and a cup of coffee, I'd satisfied about half of my craving for the fair, the other half being looking for any chintzy souvenir I might want to take home. But that wasn't necessary, since I already have enough clothes to last me for the next decade or two (unless I get fat), and I have about enough honky tonk wear for my tastes. Like my holstein cowboy hat, my fake-snakeskin-but-really-cowhide cowboy hat, and my favorite, my Kill Bill jacket. (Kate especially hates that one, guaranteeing I'll keep it.)
One honky-tonk... Two honky-tonk...
...three honky-tonk!So I didn't need any more schlock. (Couldn't afford it even if I did.) After the fried dough and a tour through the arts & crafts, the rest of our time was more spent with the family: Lisa had driven out from Pennsylvania, and Julie & Hals had come up with the boys, spending a day at the Fair before taking a four-day hike in the White Mountains. (Julie's no girlie girl, but I respect how she's willing to do down-and-dirty stuff to keep the men in her life happy. She was upset at the thought of not showering for half a week, but I reminded her that everybody else would smell as badly as she did, so it didn't matter.)
Kate and I had just barely made it up, since Kate spent the entire week home, most of it in bed, with some strange, as-yet undiagnosed ailment that basically paralyzed her for two days. Possibly it was Lyme disease, though the blood test came back negative (though false negatives are common enough with that disease). So far the antibiotics have restored her mobility, but they have other side effects which have laid her low again today.
Kate's two good days were the days central to our plan: the drive up Friday, and the Fair on Saturday. I lightly cracked the whip--I don't give myself much practice at that kind of thing, so I'm really not much of a taskmaster--to get us out of the house by 9:30 Friday morning, to beat the Boston traffic. It's horrific on Columbus Day weekend, leading to 5-hour commutes from Boston to Moultonboro, and 6+ hour commutes from Boston to Portland. We successfully beat it, had time for a leisurely lunch in Concord, and then rambled on up to Wonalancet, a tiny little village north of Sandwich, where we were staying with an old friend of mine, my 5th-6th grade teacher, Chele Miller.
Chele was the first person I told that Kate and I were going to get engaged--in an as-yet unwritten chapter of the Pup & Ben series--in the upstairs lounge at the Corner House (my second-favorite New Hampshire restaurant behind the Common Man). She'd offered to put us up should we return, so we took her up on the offer and all had Chinese that night for dinner before knocking off to sleep.
Our Saturday wasn't too early, considering Kate likes her mornings in (so do I, but she really treasures hers), and it takes about an hour to get Eva ready for anything (food, diaper, change, play a little bit to settle her down). So it was moving toward noon by the time we finally entered the fair.
Eva, just over a year old, of course had no clue as to where she was or what was going on. But when she's stimulated, she shows it, and she loved the midway games. Not long after we arrived, Eva met a miniature horse, and a little bit later Kate bagged a small stuffed crab for her at a basketball game (and we both had to keep her hands off the merchandise in the arts & crafts stalls).
But maybe the high point of the day for her was the merry-go-round, which she actually enjoyed quite a bit. Kate suggested it, and I thought Eva might dislike it as too noisy and fast, but not at all (though she didn't love the saddle at first).
That night at dinner, at the Corner House again (right across the street from the fairgrounds), all of us Sutherlands and Platts sat down with Chele and spent a few hours chowing down and telling stories. Eva amazed us all by drinking a good honest 8 oz of apple cider (more than she'd ever had from a cup), and then more milk besides. (Kate's mother is right: wean the kid, and thirst will teach them how to drink from a cup!)
When things like how much the baby drank are among the headlines of the day, you know it was a very placid day. And that it was: enjoyable and placid.
After Wednesday night's emergency room adventure, placid was just fine. (And maybe the emergency room will merit its own post, but not right now. Suffice it to say, even ordering and eating pizza there is a trial.)
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