Wednesday, July 4, 2012

The Rig Diaries 2


Tuesday, July 3, 2012

18:45

I’ll be missing the Fourth of July with my family.  For all of the time I’ve spent away from home since meeting Kate, including when we were just dating, I’ve never missed a big date like a birthday, anniversary, or major holiday.  I don’t enjoy the thought of my little girl enjoying one of those big holidays, with fireworks and maybe a parade, while I’m not there.  It would be better for us all to be together.

I can’t think about being a United States citizen without feeling a cramp in my gut about the small minority of powerful people seeking right now to politically divide and economically conquer this great country.  I think about our hideously unjust wars against Muslims, and when I compare them to our fight seventy years ago against a genuine attempt at world conquest, I’m ashamed.  I think about the purposeful idealism of the people who helped found this country, and the modest maturity of George Washington, the first President, who insisted on limits to his own power.  I think those founders—outside of attempts to capitalize politically on their names--would be dismissed as rubes and radicals by people in Washington today.  Imperial Rome would not have accepted republican Rome, as republican Rome would not have recognized imperial Rome.

I think about how technology, and how the complexity, scale and speed of the world economy have grown beyond anything that group of 18th century men (even the irreverent Ben Franklin) could possibly have imagined, or designed their government for.  About how this country, initially a set of colonies, was founded as an experiment by people who were consciously rootless here.  I think that experiment, that rootlessness, and of course the largely unpopulated, spectacularly well-endowed continent, with large coastlines on two oceans, led very directly to the world prominence we enjoy today.  Our national ethic has always been one of seeking and using opportunity with cheerful self-confidence. 

Our results have been mixed.  We produced a federal Constitution, as a theory of government and as a concept in itself—a national government which is explicitly a contract, designed all at once as a unit—whose impact on world history is difficult to even estimate.  We have led the way to the industrial and technological marvels we know today.  We joined with England and Russia in defending the world against a genocidal maniac and a would-be Pacific empire.  However, our easy self-confidence has overlooked the environmental and social costs of our desperate profiteering.  It has overlooked our gradual change from defender of freedom to defender of our own privilege.  It fails to understand that many around the world now view us with hatred and fear far worse than our early fear of England.

I think we need a new Constitution.  One founded on recognizing the equality of sexes, races, religions, sexuality—of all people.  One founded on recognizing that we all humans share the same planet, and that our actions ultimately affect everyone.  One which allows people to continue seeking and using their own opportunities, and allows people to become rich, but which separates government from the power of money, the way our Constitution now separates government from the active military.  One which recognizes that this country, however powerful, is one in a community of sovereign peers.  We need a new Constitution which speaks to the hopes and realities of the growing generations.  That would make me truly proud on a Fourth of July.

Right now, it seems to me that national holidays like the Fourth of July try to hearken back to the golden age of the United States, from the mid-40’s to the mid-50’s.  Brick architecture, big cars, jazz, early rock & roll, even the rompous brass band marches which had been around for a long time already—reminiscence of these, even briefly, is to me an attempt to pull the covers over our eyes for a few minutes.  Fourth of July parades always leave me sadder.

I’m not saying, Do away with holidays, or the Fourth of July.  But I think that a time of fear and unrest like now requires a rededication of mind and will.  Instead of a continent filled with trees, wild animals, and sometimes antagonistic natives, we look out at a world to a large extent made by us—with roads, industry, pollution, colliding races, and omnipotent money—as a challenge.  We see societies suffering from the results of their own labor.  We need to accept the challenges of our own time.  (“What happened to the American Dream?” asked the darkly antiheroic Comedian in Watchmen.  “It came true.  We’re in it.”)  We need a new dream.  The old one is over.



I have moments of wishful thinking of that golden age, and more deeply, a great respect for those who came of age during it.  They carry some of the gold with them still.  Speaking to the first, one of Eva’s (and the whole family’s) favorite movies is The Polar Express.   It’s a child’s tale made gorgeously into a grand and complex tableau, about a young boy who discovers Christmas by going to Santa’s capital city.  The train itself and the city’s architecture might have come from the late 1800’s or early 20th century—a black, coal-fired steam engine thundering its way toward a brightly lit city of brick and cobblestone.  Frank Sinatra’s carols came floating thinly through loudspeakers in the empty halls, at one point the needle even skipping on the LP.  While the outsides of buildings were largely plain red brick with rows of windows, the insides were like train stations themselves, sleek and monumental cathedrals of brass, steel and stone.  I could easily imagine, in summertime, Rhapsody in Blue wafting through those speakers.  For that matter, I could easily imagine Summertime, When the Living is Easy floating through them too.

That city and its train and its music hearken straight back to our national golden age, and the decades which led to it, when this nation was still building itself up from the ground.  It gives me a wistful sense of irony to watch this movie—and I adore it along with Eva and Kate.  (Something tells me Eliot will too.  The way you know he’s going to like sugar, pizza and music.)

Speaking to the second, deeper sense of respect I have for others, I think of a two particular people.  First, when Kate and I were still living in Rhode Island, after we had sold the condo and moved to a small house near the water on Coolidge Street, the neighbor across the street from us was a fat old man named Frank. I slowly warmed up to him, especially when I saw how much he enjoyed Eva.  I initially had a father’s typical suspicion of someone I didn’t know near my child, but I quickly realized that any such fears of Frank were silly and misguided.  Frank is one of the sweetest and most teddybearish men I have ever known.  If Kate or I were out with our little girl—she was still somewhat new to walking at that point, and frequently across the street was as far as she got (and she loved Frank’s flowers)—and Frank was home, he would be sure to come out, say hello and chat.  Being old and home with his wife much of the time, without his own children and grandchildren visiting often, made him naturally glad for company.

Frank was also a veteran Marine.  I never asked him about it, but since World War II veterans are now in their 90’s, and Frank seemed more in his late 60’s or early 70’s, I assume he served in Korea.  He flew a United States flag on flagpole in his front yard, surrounded by roses.  And he was one of the very few people I have ever known who followed flag protocol.  It is to be flown only during daylight, be raised after dawn and be taken in before sunset, unless you shine a light on it while it is dark.  Frank kept a light on that flag every night—he even had it on a timer when he was on vacation.

The light bugged me a little bit, since it kept all of his hedges lit up and kept our whole yard a lot brighter than it would have been otherwise.  But I had nothing but respect for Frank’s respect for the flag.  Nowadays, that flags have become lapel pins and ornaments for car antennas and have generally been commercialized in all kinds of ways, I notice when veterans become upset with disrespect for the national ensign.  Frank showed such respect for it that I sometimes felt like saluting him when he was in his front yard tending the roses.

 I never learned the name of the second person.  I doubt I ever will.  But shortly after Kate and I had moved from Rhode Island up to Rumford Point in Maine, we were settling into our little rented farmhouse and cleaning things out.  (Well, I was cleaning things out, and she was preparing to give birth to Eliot.)  There was a big barn behind the house, mostly empty except for a few pickup trucks’ worth of garbage (and one large barrel with five dead squirrels who couldn’t escape once they entered—apparently curiosity is even more deadly to them than it is to cats).  So I had borrowed Dave’s truck and was bringing loads of garbage to the dump.  One of the pieces of garbage was a tattered old U.S. flag, ripped, faded and brown.  I simply tossed it in the back of the truck with the rest of the load and headed to the landfill transfer station. 

Once there, I was tossing various pieces of junk into the container box.  A group of three older men was standing about 20 feet away and talking amongst themselves as I threw the garbage into the disposal.  I picked up the flag, I walked over to the container and was about to throw it in.  One of the men came briskly up.

“Excuse me, I’ll take that,” he said to me, holding out his hand.

“I beg your pardon?” I responded, a bit startled.

“You were going to throw away that flag, yes?” he asked.

“Yes, I was.”

“I thought so.  I would’ve had to do something to you if you had.  I’ll dispose of it properly.”

“Um…okay, here you go.” I half-stammered, giving him the flag, but I was now curious.  “What’s the proper way to dispose of a flag?”

“By burning.”

“Oh…I had no idea.”

“I didn’t think you did.  It’s all right.”

I thanked him and was somewhat in awe as he walked away holding the flag.  Part of me envies his devotion.

Wednesday, July 04, 2012

08:15

As a small continuation to my post of last night: I’d been thinking of putting a maritime US flag—one of those with thirteen stars in a circle surrounding an anchor on the blue field instead of 50 stars—but I don’t think I will, in light of the flag protocol I was writing about.  I see myself making too many mistakes.  But something else, maybe…the Dartmouth lone pine, white on green, would be fun.  Or the red-on-yellow Scottish lion.  I’ll keep thinking about it.

It’s a fine morning here on the Gulf, fluffy cumulus clouds moving west as we head toward our next location at slightly over 4 kts.  Our ETA is 16:30, sooner if the tugs speed up and the rig doesn’t start bouncing too much.  There are still lazy 2-4 foot waves going by, enough for us to feel them.  But apparently, like in New England when we get a moist wind out of the east, there’s a low pressure system building in the Caribbean which is heading our way and will make things rough. I don’t relish the thought of spending another 4-5 days down here to do two or at most three more sonar scans—that will mean I’ve averaged one single scan per week—but this is my assignment.  I wonder how severe the storm has to be for us to evacuate the platform outright, as opposed to simply riding it out.

 16:45

We’re approaching our pin location—about a mile away—and the predicted storminess is nowhere to be seen.  Or actually, it’s already far to the west of us, in the form of a dramatic storm front which crossed our path shortly after sunset last night (while I was composing yesterday’s entry).  The front looked like a serrated line of clouds which dipped from about 1000 down to about 100 feet from the sea surface, with clear golden evening skies to the west and gloom to the east.  Behind it came the lightning and the rain, and soon the waves.  It was a pretty thrilling thunderstorm, all in all.  If I were to rank the ones I’ve seen and remember, it would be in the top 5.  In fact, why don’t I try to list the top 5 right now:

(1)    When I was maybe 7 or 8, one August up at Moosehead Lake, Maine.  Two thunderstorms collided and fought over the lake.  Lightning struck a tree near the cabins and blew our our lights, causing sparks to hit my dinner plate and burn my peas.
(2)   When I was maybe 3 or 4, one summer night in Moultonboro, NH.  The lightning was many different colors, including blue, red and green.
(3)   One summer at Hawk’s Nest Beach, Connecticut (there was usually one good thunderboomer every two weeks there).  Our family, as usual, had gathered on the porch to watch the show.  Some fool was out in the storm, trying to motor back to port in his sailboat, while lightning was striking the Long Island Sound all around him.
(4)   October 1989, in Paestum, on the west coast of Italy.  A squall blew in from the Mediterranean, and the storm clouds passed overhead and  suddenly nose-dived into the hills to the east as the sky exploded in thunder and rain.
(5)   Last night.  The furrowed rows of clouds reminded me of the storm in Paestum.
(6)   One summer in Moultonboro again, while I was at work in the boat house at the condominium.  A squall blew over so we went to the boathouse to sweep out the bat turds.  I was right at the big doors on the end when a bolt of lightning passed right in front of my face.  All the air turned pink and the bolt was bright white.

Not my storm--just an inernet image.  But a very similar view.
I (and about 10 other guys) were all on the eastern decks of the rig, trying to get photos of the lightning with our cell phones.  I tried about five or six times but the photos were all crap.  I had to settle for a photo of the cloud front (which hopefully I’ll be able to add to this blog later, once I’m in the USA and not paying crazy rates for phone data transfers).

I was given an official-looking, flame-retardant coverall as my onboard work outfit.  Kate’s mother whipped up a homemade version for me with a red Dickies coverall and the reflective patches cannibalized from a reflective vest (thanks, Ma), but the rig manager was making fun of me about it so it was actually a bit of a relief to get the company-supplied version.  And I broke it in for real today, since I’m now covered in grime after wrestling with the sonar cable for an hour.

At some point this afternoon I’ll be making another scan, and the water is roughly 180 feet deep.  To be on the safe side I unspooled about 270 feet and then had to coil it neatly down on deck so it wouldn’t kink and snarl as we hand-lower the unit into the water.  I was trying to do it alone, unsuccessfully.  One of the Mexicans heard me dropping F-bombs on the forward deck and came up to help.  I plan to learn Spanish but of course I already know “muchos gracias”. 

Since the water is so calm, it’s possible we’ll achieve our final position tonight.  I’m hopeful again that I’ll be able to head back to shore tomorrow, but as is usual out here, I’ll find out when  I find out.  On my first hitch, with the Tom Jobe, we learned that the crew boat was on its way to pick us up when we saw it one mile off the stern and headed our way.

This time, however, we’re not pinned a few miles offshore of Dos Bocas.  We’re in the oil field off of Del Carmen, roughly 90 nm from shore, a 6-8 hour boat ride.  And we’ll be going back to the Pemex facility, where I’ve heard the officials are ready to confiscate any personal electronics.  I knew it was likely I was coming through this place on this trip, but I decided that I’d take the chance, and see how difficult it is to bring my own PC back onshore.  (I’m relying partly on the fact that I’ll be off the rig before they do any drilling, so I won’t have had the chance to steal any well data, which I assume is the main thing they’re worried about.)  Even so, if I lose the computer, phooey on me.  I didn’t bring all my external drives and IPod this time around, at least.  So I was only about 60% dumb, not 100%. 

Monday, July 2, 2012

The Rig Diaries


Wednesday, June 27, 2012

11:30

Roughly an hour ago we cleared the jetties to the port of Brownsville, Texas.  The mobile jackup rig Noble Sam Noble is now headed south along the coast to Dos Bocas, Mexico, where it will pin and await the drilling crew before moving on site and getting to the business of drilling.  Barring weather problems, this move should go just like the last one, in the Tom Jobe.  That is to say, six to seven days of being pulled slowly by three tugboats along the Mexican shelf.  From Brownsville to Dos Bocas, by straight line across the Bay of Campeche, is 900 km (485 nautical miles).  Skirting the coastline about ten to twenty miles out, the trip is 1200 km (660 nautical miles).  We take the longer route in case bad weather forces us to run for the shallows and jack up.

We’d been idling in the port of Brownsville for about two weeks, during which time I went home and then came back again, because of some tropical storms.  First was Hurricane Carlotta, which ran west across southern Mexico, and then was Tropical Storm Debbie, which formed in the eastern Gulf, loitered about for the better part of a week, and then drifted back east.  Generally speaking these storms are detectable systems 2-3 days before they become dangerous storms, so there’s a certain amount of lead time, say for a rig like this one, to escape to safer waters.  But oil companies, and more specifically their insurers, don’t play games of chicken with rigs worth a hundred million dollars or more.

My only gripes so far are pretty minor, considering the overall ease of this job (I’m on standby until the rig pins, and then I do a sonar scan of the bottom).  First is that I still have colitis, though on the severity spectrum I’m very much on the mild side.  But I do take some maintenance medication, to keep inflammation down and my immune system at bay.  Due to the herky-jerk nature of my home-and-back-again storm-related travel, one of my prescriptions could only be filled after I’d returned to Texas.  So Kate dutifully got it filled and overnighted it to the port office down here—and now my meds are languishing in an envelope, somewhere, ins somebody’s office or possibly a distribution center.  Had there been more time before leaving port I would have gone to the office myself and searched.  I may never find out where it went—it’s a little like the end of Raiders of the Lost Ark.  Second is, I got knocked out of my bright, airy perch on top of the rig house, where I’d taken up station with my computer.  The rig mover and rig manager both want the space now, so I ceded it.  That in itself means nothing, except that I do need at least some access to sunlight while I work, otherwise I might really go Overlook Hotel out here.  So I’ve just moved into the office that the mover and manager vacated…problem solved.  Except that they took the coffee maker with them.

Last remark for now.  The hardest part of the early school year at UNH was maintaining my energy level, when I was commuting back and forth several times a week, on short rest.  But what’s become the most difficult now is listening to my little girl Eva cry over the phone that she misses me.  It’s hard not to hear that and curse every decision I’ve made that brought me to the point of working for weeks at a time away from home.  Kate and I are adults, and I know that Kate works very hard to conceal her anxieties from me when she sees the need.  (Except for when she admits to nearly driving off the road in tears after dropping me off at the airport—so we won’t do that again.)  Eliot is just a baby and pretty much his entire world is his mother, so he’s fine.  But Eva is a child, and children don’t understand.  They’re not supposed to understand.  They shouldn’t have to understand.

14:40

We’re still within sight of land, though more distantly.  As the afternoon goes on it will drop below the horizon and we’ll be over the deeper part of the continental shelf.  It’s surprisingly temperate out here, for being at 25ยบ latitude.  Of course, it’s always cooler on the water than on land, but I was surprised at just how comfortable I was my last time out on deck.

To pass the time, I’m either practicing math (which I absolutely must do), or indulging in a little reading.  I like to challenge myself, and my current challenge is William Blake.  He was the most enigmatic of the English Romantic poets, active in the late 1700’s and early 1800’s.  Blake distinguished himself—violently—from his contemporaries in a number of ways.  He wasn’t content to simply write words on a page, and let a printer typeset and publish them.  Blake engraved most of his poems into copper plates and printed them himself as illustrated, or illuminated, volumes.  Particularly notable among his illustrated editions are the Songs of Innocence & Experience, the Marriage of Heaven and Hell, Milton, and Jerusalem.  The latter two, along with Europe and America, are among his prophetic works.

William Blake is most popularly known for his Songs of Innocence and Experience, and specifically, for two poems in them, two of the most famous in the English language:

From Songs of Innocence, The Lamb:

Little Lamb, who made thee
Dost thou know who made thee,
Gave thee life, and bid thee feed
By the stream and o'er the mead;
Gave thee clothing of delight,
Softest clothing, woolly, bright;
Gave thee such a tender voice,
Making all the vales rejoice?
Little Lamb, who made thee?
Dost thou know who made thee?

Little Lamb, I'll tell thee;
Little Lamb, I'll tell thee:
He is called by thy name,
For He calls Himself a Lamb
He is meek, and He is mild,
He became a little child.
I a child, and thou a lamb,
We are called by His name.
Little Lamb, God bless thee!
Little Lamb, God bless thee!

And from Songs of Experience, The Tyger:

Tyger, tyger, burning bright
In the forests of the night,
What immortal hand or eye
Could frame thy fearful symmetry?

In what distant deeps or skies
Burnt the fire of thine eyes?
On what wings dare he aspire?
What the hand dare seize the fire?

And what shoulder and what art
Could twist the sinews of thy heart?
And, when thy heart began to beat,
What dread hand and what dread feet?

What the hammer? what the chain?
In what furnace was thy brain?
What the anvil? what dread grasp
Dare its deadly terrors clasp?

When the stars threw down their spears,
And watered heaven with their tears,
Did he smile his work to see?
Did he who made the lamb make thee?

Tyger, tyger, burning bright
In the forests of the night,
What immortal hand or eye
Dare frame thy fearful symmetry?

*           *           *

Blake is less well known for his prophetic works.  He saw himself as a prophet, a social outcast laboring to show humanity how to live.  My  best understanding of Blake’s vision is to use a modern scientific analogue: the theory of the Big Bang.  This theory holds, that before time began—and time itself is about 10 billion years old—the entire universe was a singularity, what we think of as a black hole.  Only there was no space around it, and everything we now know—all matter and all energy—was contained in this singularity.  And then, bang.  The singularity exploded, producing space, energy, and matter.  Since then the universe has been expanding outward—like the expanding cloud of an explosion—and gradually cooling.  Matter and energy remain constant—or, as Einstein would say, matter is energy, so energy remains constant—but thermodynamics has taken over.  Highly concentrated sources of energy are dissipating and spreading out: the universe is running down, so to speak.  All the fossil fuels we burn on Earth to carry on our business are just stored forms of solar energy—partially decayed plant matter--and the Sun is running down too.  So our human economy is no exception to this.

In Blake’s terms, the universe has fallen from its original, singular state.  When everything existed all together, undifferentiated, not subject to analysis and study, the Universe was pure and whole.  But the bang—the fall—changed all that, and now the Universe has many parts, all flying away from each other, all cooling down, all subject to separate analysis by humans like us.  So the human psychology is just the remnant fragments of the original man—Albion in his poem Jerusalem—which must be reunited into their singular, undifferentiated state for man to be restored.  Male and female are unnatural subdivisions of the original man.  Blake identifies the rational faculty as Satan, itself not something to be shunned, but rather folded back into the whole.  In man’s original state, religion, science and art are effortless acts of inspired imagination.  Love is spontaneous for all things, not activated by sexual desire.  To rise from the fallen state is to see everything imaginatively as part of and within yourself.  This is why, contrary to what’s normally supposed, the Songs of Innocence, talking about a childlike imagination animating the entire world, actually detail a higher consciousness than the Songs of Experience, which deal with the resigned state of an unimaginative adult.

This much I’ve gleaned from commentaries, and from Blake himself.  But Blake surrounds these central concepts with a swirling array of characters, allegories for human psychology, historical periods and people, geographical locations, and more.  A few examples: the character Orc is identified with the Freudian concept of the Id, or animalistic desire.  Orc is by no means inherently evil: he’s more of a relentless upsetter of order, and not at all evil.  Urizen (“you risen”, get it? Clever) is the rational faculty, the most evil component of the human makeup.  Coban (the philosopher Francis Bacon, with some letters mixed up), Hand and Hyle (Isaac Newton and philosopher John Locke) are Urizen’s trustiest aides, shackling man to a rational reality.  Los (“soul” backwards--isn’t Blake tricky?) is the human soul, struggling to pacify all of his constituent parts in order to restore man—Albion—to his unfallen state.

So Blake’s a mess, pretty much.  That is to say, his prophetic works are intentionally dense, full of variety and hard to penetrate, with many references in many directions all at once.   In a sense time never passes, because all events might be taking place simultaneously.  There is no trace of a clear chronology.  Blake’s prophecies bear more than a passing resemblance to Joyce’s Finnegans Wake, really.  You might go so far as to say that Finnegan and Albion are the same.  You might.

So this is my challenge!  Since it’s hard to stay motivated over a calculus book for several hours a day, I have this other, even more difficult, thing to contend with.  Besides, I love poetry.

Thursday, June 28, 2012

13:20

This rig move—hard to call it a voyage—is reminding me of two years ago, after I’d come home from the hospital, recovering from a severe episode of colitis.  I was unemployed then, though in contact already with Entrix, for whom I would work across the summer as an acoustician.  Mostly, though, I was hopped up to near-insanity on prednisone, a steroid which reduces inflammation (the main goal), and also does other steroid-type things like make a person more irritable, destroy the sex drive, and give a person unnatural amounts of energy.  From May through the end of June, I think I averaged about 2 hours of sleep a night, if that.  Every second or third night I simply wouldn’t sleep at all.  Usually I was coming up to bed around 3:30, lying fitfully awake for 45 minutes or so, and then dropping off until 4:30 or 5. 

So I put the nighttime hours to the best use I could think of : I read.  And I picked the one writer I felt guiltiest about not having read yet: Thoreau.  Thoreau’s thinking is free of pity, full of wonder, relying more on his own senses and imagination than anything he’d read.  His writing is a confirmation and a challenge, as the best writing should be.

So I’m using this enforced confinement aboard the Noble Sam Noble—no phone, no internet connection, nothing outside except the sea and the sky—to do some reading I’ve put off for too long.  William Blake is a very difficult poet to wade into.  People commonly divide his lyrical works, like Songs of Innocence and Experience, from his prophecies, and even somewhat to look on the prophecies as misguided and possibly unhealthy aberrations of his later life.  Even the Songs of Experience are sometimes considered to be a sign of Blake’s descent from his earlier celebration of innocence, of his steadily growing disillusionment with life, and incipient depression bordering on madness.  These opinions, however, are nothing but laziness wrapped in ignorance.  All of Blake’s work forms an imaginative whole, founded on the primacy of imagination.  Innocence is simply a higher imaginative state, more childlike and informed by the mind, than experience, a weary resignation to the cruelty of existence.  Both states can exist within the same mind, but innocence, being more creative, is superior.  The goal of all creative effort is to reestablish the state of childlike imagination—though more sophisticated, perhaps, in adulthood, but really no different.

I’m finding this more cathartic even than my reading of Thoreau a few years ago.  2012 was the year of my twentieth reunion at Dartmouth (which I avoided).  I’m largely ashamed of how I became a drunk, accomplished nothing, and made no lasting close friends there.  These past few years, while hardly at all able to economically support my own family, this humiliation in me has burned all the hotter.  And as I look in rage and fear at the largely successful efforts of a few very wealthy people to paralyze and murder this democracy known as the United States, I fear not only for my own family but for the world in general.  I fear for the world even more than when I was an adolescent terrified of nuclear war during the Reagan years.

Blake lived and wrote during the times of the American and French Revolutions.  Two of his major prophecies—America and Europe—were inspired by and devoted to them.  He also watched the French Revolution devolve into a horrible bath of blood resulting in tyranny worse than before.  When I look at the disenfranchisement, economic misery and cruel austerities of people and nations today, I see anxiety and pain not unlike what drove people to revolution almost two hundred fifty years ago.  So, I thought, I’ll turn to Blake.  His work was at once intensely psychological—perhaps answering my own internal wars—and occupied with the cruelty of society.

I’ve found a gateway into my own memories (“spectres”, forms of man’s fallen state, in Blake’s world).  And this is a good thing because in Blake, as the soul must draw its spectres into itself in order to become complete, so my task is to understand my choices of twenty-two and twenty-three years ago, and harmonize them with the person I am now.  In Blake’s terms, I am to welcome that spectre back into myself and be healed.

Nearly sleepless nights this winter and spring, as I thought bitterly about teachers I had and friends I alienated, I learned nothing so much as just how deep and strong this current of feeling was in me, and therefore I could come to suspect how much this bitterness had been affecting my judgment even up till now.  Counseling following my mother’s death taught me that old trauma has large effects on daily life later.  The anger I was directing toward colleagues at the time was due to the grief over my father’s death, nearly ten years prior.  And the disdain and suspicion which has become such a natural part of my manner now, I felt was the result of what I’d done decades ago.  Disgust with and distrust in myself led to my projecting them onto others.  I was unable to make friends.

The emotional question is larger than “I coulda been an actor” or some other such silly thought.  Most of us, within limits of our ability, can be anything.  During my senior year at high school, I went to a one-day theater seminar at Hanover, held in Dartmouth’s Hopkins Center.  We saw a play, toured the center, and had a question-and-answer session with a professional actor.  I came away enthralled, convinced I’d found my career.  I told my parents so over dinner.

Silence.

“Well, Michael…” my mother answered, “…if you want to throw your education away and do something like that, go ahead, but don’t expect any help from us.”

My father remained silent, and looked at me.

I never mentioned it again.  Even when my creative writing teacher told me, after I’d spent the spring writing a play, that I should do everything I could to get it produced at Dartmouth, I was already shrinking in fear.  I went to Dartmouth convinced that I was the least intelligent, least talented person there.  I had probably already made up my mind to simply follow the path of least resistance, like water moving downhill.

That path led me to Rome, on the archeological foreign study program.  I didn’t care much for Roman archeology, but I was invited to come back as the TA two years later.  Had I known myself better, I would have refused, for the TAship interested me even less than the program itself had.  Had I had more courage, I would have begun then to find my own way without advice.

Instead, I agreed.  When I returned to campus that winter, I arranged my semester schedule to allow for my senior fall to be free of classes.  And since I’d missed the fall on campus, with the new freshmen and all my own classmates there, I panicked.  “Where will I find friends?” I asked myself.  With my entire college career seemingly decided for me by a professor, having been too timid to earnestly follow any of my own interests, and feeling friendless, my heart broke and I gave up.  I joined a fraternity and proceeded to shuffle through two and a half more years of agony.

By joining the fraternity I turned my back on all of the things I considered important: compassion, introspection, love, and honesty.  Instead, I tried to learn the ways of the house. It’s not surprising I was a complete failure as a fraternity brother, a bitter drunk with no sense of proportion in how I acted or dealt with people.  I had shut off my higher faculties and relied only on the lowest.

In short, I betrayed myself.

I think it’s necessary for a person to indulge his or her self-destructive tendencies.  Self-knowledge does not come without great pain.  My main regrets of college are making few friends, and learning nothing useful while I was there (except how to split wood and light a fire, I suppose). 

I had a few romantic hearbreaks along the way, but they were largely of the puppy-love sort, where I hadn’t actually been in a relationship long, or at all, with the woman.  The heartbreak of my sophomore year did not involve a woman, it only involved my hope.  It was so deep and so quiet—my last remaining bit of nerve, which had been shaven away to nearly nothing by two years of cowardice--that I wasn’t aware of any symptoms until years later, and only now have I diagnosed it.  I had a few mild heartbreaks over women, of course.  There were girls I was interested in at Dartmouth, and after, whom I think back on wistfully.  And while I thought I was in love once or twice, I never found out much about it.

Kate is the one woman I know I’ve deeply loved.  From the very beginning—and at this point, I’m not too sure I’ll get back to that Pup & Ben series—from the beginning, my affection for her was of a very different sort from what I’d felt for other women.  It wasn’t a loud, half-desperate infatuation.  This attraction was much quieter, and might simply show itself in how glad I was to see her again, and how sad to leave.  (This hasn’t changed, with me heading out to sea for a few weeks at a time for work.)  And since then, the love between us has not changed or diminished one bit—we’ve simply gained more knowledge of each other.  (Like, she knows I like for her to wear boots.)

“The road of excess leads to the palace of wisdom,” is one of the Proverbs of Hell in Blake’s Marriage of Heaven and Hell.  (Let’s just say for right now, that Blake had an unconventional cosmology.  Heaven and Hell aren’t quite what they’re described to be in church.)  In my case, the excess has been twenty-two years of psychological self-abuse.

 What this means for my life now, I don’t know.  I still have a wife and two children, and the world is still a dangerous place.  I still work in ocean engineering (and an oil rig isn’t really the calmest of places).  But I do know that the spectre is within me now—I comprehend the memory--and I sense that the nerve which withered away and snapped years ago has grown back whole.

Friday, June 29, 2012

06:00

I don’t have to get up with the crew for tour (pronounced “tower”—it means shift) at 6 AM.  The medic is the same way—he and I are outside hires, independent contractors, not required to be on the rig crew’s schedule.  Yesterday, by his own admission, he slept until 11.  (I slept till 8.)  But I’d rather get up early.  It makes me feel a bit better about myself, that I’m not just loafing.  Things don’t get busy or noisy around here, since there are fewer than 20 of us (and the rig could accommodate perhaps 80 or 100) for this move.  And even when there are more guys, quiet and courtesy to the ones sleeping is stressed—i.e, don’t yell, run or slam doors.  (Besides, one tour lasts 12 hours—6 to 6, generally—so most guys awake are out on the drilling floor working.  Or, if Ken the rig manager is to be believed, quietly playing poker somewhere off tour.)

Ken stopped by my new commandeered office—the drilling office, I think, because I can see some BOP (blowout preventer) controls in the corner—and we talked a bit last night.  Ken is a softspoken guy, barrel-chested, balding with a horseshoe of hair, and a dainty set of reading glasses perched either on his nose or sitting up on his skull.  He stopped at the office door last night and asked me about what all the math I was doing was for (practicing for next year’s comprehensive exam), and then we talked about work in the 80’s, after the Iran revolution led to major conservation efforts around the world.  (This was to change with the advent of the SUV in the 90’s.)  

The recession during the Reagan years was much milder than now—we are in a borderline depression—and, as an aside, the bank crash then was a scratch on the cheek compared to the mortal wound of now.  But there was a downturn, and in the 80’s Ken turned to carpentry, traveling to different states with his father for work, and leaving his family at home for weeks or over a month at a time.  That’s easily comparable to work at sea, because of the indefinite nature of work periods.  Oil rig employees are generally on a rotation—7 days on, 7 days off, or 14 and 14, or 28 and 28 (offshore it’s generally 28 and 28)—and it doesn’t change much—the most that might happen is they evacuate for a hurricane.  Blokes like me who work on boats are subject primarily to the weather, and as we’ve all seen this week, it can change quickly and hold things up indefinitely. 

I like Ken.  In an unfamiliar environment like a drilling rig (one I don’t wish to get all that familiar with, frankly), what I ask for primarily in the folks I deal with is that they be straightforward.  So far, all three rig managers I’ve known have been just that: low-key, earnest men.  On the whole, I like the people I’ve found out here (with a few easily overlooked exceptions).  Even Ronnie the cook is a very nice guy—I just can’t understand 75% of what he says.  Much like that unintelligible bounty hunter in Samurai Jack (the obvious comedy of the thing).  

The man.
The pig. (And friends--sorry for such a blurry picture)
Not to stray too far off the path here, since this is a family blog, but of course, conversation on a rig frequently turns to sex—and it isn’t respectful or thoughtful, either.  I’m threatened by none of it.  I’m a man too, after all.  But one of the more amusing aspects of life is how we see characters—whether people we’ve known, or even fictional—whom we’ve seen and heard before, appear again in front of us.  I’d think most everyone (among the millions! Ha.  Maybe half a dozen?  Maybe) who read this blog has known this to happen as well: you meet someone who physically, and even in demeanor, resembles someone you’ve already known.  Like certain physiques and habits of posture lend themselves to particular ways of speaking or acting. You meet the person and right away, at a glance, feel you know them already.  In this case, it’s a fictional reference again (like the bounty hunter pig).  One of the cooks on this rig sounds almost exactly—in pitch and intonation—like the evil cow on “Aqua Teen Hunger Force”. 

You are forgiven for having no idea what that show is.  It’s one of the more inane late-night cartoons I used to watch.  The main characters are a floating box of French fries named Frylock, who can shoot lightning from his eyes (and does so every once in a while); a vanilla shake named Shake (a selfish and mean-spirited jerk); the meatball Meatwad (childish, harmless and stupid); and their fat, ugly and libido-driven neighbor Carl.  The whole show has a hip-hop musical setting, and their adventures are roughly as dumb as you might expect.  (I like it a lot, and one day I’ll break down and buy the DVDs.) 
Carl.

One of their nemeses is Sir Loin, an evil cow condemned to hell, who occasionally whips up a scheme that messes them all up.  This cow speaks—screams, really—with a high-pitched, angry, black voice.  And it just so happens that one of the cooks sounds just like him.  Heck, I close my eyes, and it might be the cow speaking, including the subject matter (though no longer PG).  The cook last night was the one doing most of the talking about sex.

I love it when characters appear in front of me.  Even when it’s a malevolent talking cow.

The evil Sir Loin.                                                     Fear the fries.
Anyhow, dawn is finally approaching, at quarter to seven AM.  That is still the hardest thing to get used to, down here in the tropical zone (as I’m pretty sure we now are below 23ยบ 30’ latitude): the days don’t get very long.  Length of day varies more as you travel toward the poles, and less as you travel toward the equator.  I’m now more than ¾ of the way toward the equator from the north pole, so the length of day doesn’t vary all that much from summer to winter.  Heck, the sun is still close to its northward limit—we’re barely a week past the solstice--so it’s practically overhead right now.

As the sun comes up, the sky turns from black to deep blue to azure, and the highest rainclouds reflect the rosy morning light, while the ones lower down are still blue-gray.  It’s a pretty stupendous view, except for the jackup legs and drilling derrick.

20:46

Another day past.  They seem to both stretch out and be compressed as they add up.  Seven consecutive days in this metal box with occasional sunlight—either through a window or when I go out on deck for a few minutes—and very little communication.  Given all of the horrendous news from Washington DC this week, it’s not altogether bad that I don’t see any, but the confinement is oppressive.  To read attentively, I need to break it up every now and then with some conversation or something active.  There are some good guys aboard this rig but I might be the only one here with a college education.

The rig itself is making good enough time.  We’re almost halfway to our destination, Dos Bocas.  Our rough coordinates around 17:00 today were 21ยบ 15’ N, 96ยบ 35’ W.  Three more full days.  The Noble Sam Noble rides harder than the Noble Tom Jobe did.  Smaller waves—right now, surf is running 3-5’—make the rig rock slightly, groan and yank on the tugboat cables.  The tugs themselves don’t seem to be having as easy a time of it as on the last move.  With the Tom Jobe, the three tugs remained evenly spaced, perhaps 60 or 70 yards apart from each other, and maybe 250 yards ahead.  Pulling the Sam Noble, however, the center and portside (left, when facing forward) tugs seem to frequently edge close together, while the starboard tug remains spilt farther off to the right. 

I’m not sure if the starboard tug is just less powerful than the other two, or one of the captains is steering lazily (which I doubt), or, most likely, the whole rig is crabbing a little bit.  (“Crabbing” is a term used by surveyors, and possibly other maritime folks.  It refers to a current coming athwart the boat’s intended track, and forcing the boat to move diagonally—to move somewhat sideways, like a crab.  It’s a common feature of surveying in harbors where tides are active.)  I suspect there’s a current, possibly the wind too, forcing the rig out of line and making us all crab a bit.  Before we left port I did a little online searching for information on surface currents in the Bay of Campeche, but there’s very little.  NOAA doesn’t work much in Mexican waters.

Now that the light is almost gone from the sky, the tugs out front can be seen by their running lights.  When towing anything, a vessel has to run a vertical series of red-white-red lights, to warn other vessels to give it a very wide berth.  Of course, in this case, the tow is not a submerged sonar fish but a gigantic lighted drilling rig 40 times the size of the boats.  But even so, it’s wise to warn others that there’s a tow cable there.

We passed through a small storm system last night, and skirted another this morning, but we seem to be heading into another mild system now.  As the sun descended the sea ahead was foggy, and I could feel the warm dampness on my skin.  Now that it’s dark, the waxing moon is obscured by scalelike clouds and the tug lights are obscured by swirling mist and spray.  I wouldn’t be surprised to hear thunder tonight.

I took the evening off of reading and math—I was more or less fried—and wandered down to the TV room to see if anyone was watching a movie.  They were about 20 minutes into My Cousin Vinnie.  Four things I was reminded of by watching that film: (1) I really like it; (2) Marisa Tomei is one of my favorite actresses (I’m almost completely ignorant of the stars of the last six or seven years or so); (3) Joe Pesci is really funny when he’s not playing a murderous antihero, like in Goodfellas or Casino; and (4) Ralph Macchio is a wuss.  His acting career had less impact than Matthew Broderick’s, and at least Broderick had an “I-can-briefly-fake-being-a-good-actor”-type role in Glory.  Ralph?  Nada.

Sunday, July 1, 2012

08:24

Our current rough position 18ยบ 54’ N, 94ยบ 33’ W.  Our destination is approximately 19ยบ N, 93ยบ 13’ W.  So we basically have 1ยบ 20’ to traverse, or 148 km (80 nm).  At 5.5 knots—the speed we’ve more or less maintained throughout this trip—we’ll reach our destination, Dos Bocas, Mexico, in about 15 hours, or sometime near midnight.  

It’s a fine morning, with a stiff warm breeze out of the east-northeast of what feels 10-15 kts.  There are plenty of waves rocking the rig, some out of the east with the wind, the larger, longer swells decidedly more from the north.  I think the swells are the remains of tropical storm Debbie.  But the weather report also predicts rising winds throughout today and tonight, topping out around 20 kts.  I wonder if I’ll be dropping my gear in the wee hours of the morning.  I guess I wouldn’t be surprised.

Today is national election day in Mexico, so the immigration and customs officials won’t be dropping in via helicopter.  This rig doesn’t have any candy on it that I’ve seen, so unless there’s a stash specifically for the Mexican officials somewhere, they won’t be getting any.  Just as well, too, that they won’t be trying to land a chopper on the pad with the rig moving like this.  These things are about as sluggish as you might expect in the water, though the hull is very much designed for transport. 

The whole hull is basically in the shape of an arrowhead, with the weight distributed reasonably evenly (the helipad extending so far out beyond the bow helps offset the massive weight of the drilling apparatus in the stern).  Though the overall design is quite clever, worthy of the creativity people in the oil industry have shown over the years, it’s still not the smoothest of rides when waves get up.  The whole hull shudders and lurches and booms as water slaps the steel and swirls turbulently on all wides.  As I’ve stood on deck watching the blue water slide by the hull, I’ve often wondered what one of those cables would do if it snapped.  If it snapped closer to the rig, it would hurt the tug more; if it snapped closer to the tug, it’d hurt the rig more, likely slicing through a few decks and some of the quarters.  Pleasant thoughts while under tow at sea.

15:00

The wind has increased and the seas are building, so the tugs have cut their speed somewhat and our ETA at Dos Bocas is now 06:00 instead of midnight.  It’s unclear whether the rig will be staying at the port for more outfitting, or will be moving immediately out to the drilling location, in which case I’ll be staying aboard for the last leg.  It’s now my ninth day aboard the Sam Noble, and I’m very eager to leave.  Walking outside along the rails for a few minutes is not enough to offset being in the office reading or practicing math all day, and I’d really enjoy some conversation and companionship.  I guess this counts as my “Get me off this damn boat!” entry. 

18:35

ETA Dos Bocas is still first light.  It’s clear that we’re drawing closer to land because there’s an increased amount of flotsam in the water—driftwood and weeds (I’m not sure what kind of plant) ripped up from the shore or seafloor and rafted along on the current.  I’ve gotten extremely impatient of confinement aboard this rig.  The regular crew is upset as well, since their hitches have all been extended by a week or two, but without double-time pay because of a clause in the contract: since the rig has moved into another country’s waters—Mexico—the clock has reset on their double-time counter.  The poor guys are being worked 15-18 hours a day, and no one’s complaining too loudly (at least in my hearing), but the lack of morale is pretty obvious.

One grim thing I do find amusing is a part of the daily safety meetings (twice daily, once before the start of each tour, at 05:30 and 17:30).  That is the stern preacherly/sheeplike congregational dynamic of the Safety Updates.  The rig manager for that tour goes through a list of the particular tasks or aspects of scheduling for this rig (such as tonight, when Gary told the night tour guys about the 1-2 week stay), and reiterates a few platitudes (be careful about footing, don’t work alone).  And then he, or someone else, will read the company-wide daily safety bulletin, detailing reported mishaps from anywhere around the globe. 

Today’s bulletin featured two items, one a lost-time accident and the other a potential accident.   The room takes on a particular hush, and the reader assumes an especially grave and monitory tone reading out the day’s reported incidents.  The first occurred on a rig in the Mideast, where a tool (an instrument or pipe-maintenance tool) got stuck in the drilling pipe.  The rig manager had lost patience, come out of the office, grabbed a hammer and started  wailing away at the top of the tool.  It promptly came unstuck and flew out of the pipe, bruising his head and breaking his femur.  The rig manager, on top of being seriously injured, was summarily dismissed.

Now that’s not a funny story.  It’s emblematic of the real physical danger involved in drilling through rock to find pressurized gas and oil.  Read through a history of the oilfield and you’re likely to come across several anecdotes of field supervisors taking a similarly hands-on approach to a problem, successfully solving the problem and later being celebrated for it.  There’s a certain culture of machismo out here, though much less now, I suspect, than in days before.  (But ignorant machismo seems to have figured largely in such disasters as the 2008 financial crash and the Deepwater Horizon explosion.) 

In the safety meeting, however, stories like that are received with an even deeper religious sense than “there but for the grace of God go I.”  Every man on the rig knows that some kind of small problem could suddenly become a major accident, where his own first instincts could be the perfectly wrong response.  Nobody is fully on their guard at all times—it’s impossible, and unsafe, to be in such a hairtrigger state for very long.  A certain amount of relaxation is essential for working in a crowded, dirty, noisy environment like this.  But the men who hear these safety updates take them in with an almost childlike simplicity.  Now these are reasonably rough men, who drop plenty of F-bombs and whose entire senses of humor focus on sex.  But they’re also men accustomed to being told what to do, so warnings like these bulletins have a noticeable effect on their demeanors. “Be careful or you’ll lose your leg and lose your job.”  A sound enough warning on a drill rig, to be sure, but also the kind of fear-based authority you’d expect in place like this.

Monday, July 02, 2012

10:15

We arrived at the interim pin location off of Dos Bocas, Mexico, at 06:00.  I’d already begun setting up the sonar, and at 07:30 we dropped it in the water (using one of the big cranes—that certainly made things easier), did the scan—all clear—and now here we sit, waiting for customs and immigration, waiting to hear from Noble about the next steps, waiting for anything.  I don’t know if other nations, or even American exploration companies, are this sluggish and disorganized.  I noticed the Noble Tom Jobe, the rig I was on last, still pinned and doing nothing here in the bay, from over two weeks ago.  My client tells me that I’m to stay on board because we’ll be moving out to the drill site later today, while the rig manager is making plans for the rig to be here at least until Wednesday.  There’s nothing for me to do but wait, and not grow overly frustrated.

It’d be easier if phone calls from here to the US weren’t so expensive.

16:45





Perhaps working on an oil rig, even as a standby sonar operator, isn’t the best line of work for me.  The frustration of being cooped up and of plans remaining vague brings out a very strong vein of profanity in my personality.  (For the record, I didn’t swear much at all until I enlisted in the Naval Reserves in 1999.)  Version 1 of the plan, per my client at 8 this morning, was that the rig would immediately move out to the drill site, where I’d do another scan and then be done.  Version 2   of the plan, per the rig manager at 8 this morning, was that the rig would stay near the coast, I’d get off, and then the exploration company would send aboard its own sonar equipment and staff.  Without any way to reconcile the different versions, I could only wait, as the wind slowly picks up and the waves steadily grow.

Saturday, June 9, 2012

How Not to Do It

When the tender boat (one of those open-decked pickup-trucks-of-the-sea I talked about many posts ago) arrived yesterday to pick several others and me up from the rig and transfer us to shore, I had the privilege of using a personnel basket for the first time.

There are several ways to get on and off of a rig, and each has its hazards.  The fastest is via helicopter, where the copter simply lands on the helipad and folks get off and on.  This is what the Mexican customs and immigration officials did on Wednesday, while the rig was still under tow (and moving): the copter landed and they got off.  This is fastest and seems safest but there are enough over-water helicopter accidents to at least make you think.  (And also to necessitate escape-and-survive classes like the one I took a week ago).

For rig-to-boat transfers and vice versa, the personnel basket is standard.  This is an octagonal platform linked to one of the rig's cranes, large enough for several people and bags, and having a set of vertical ropes to hold on to as the crane lifts you up and over and then sets you down, from rig to boat or the other way around

(So obviously a lot is riding on the skill of your crane operator, that he doesn't start swinging you around like a yo-yo.)

Yesterday I got some first-hand experience in how not to do this.

The tender arrived, and fresh crew transferred to the rig.  Next it was our turn to get off, so we dutifully piled our bags into the middle of the basket, stepped aboard, clutched the ropes and the crane lifted us off.  Now, the deck from which we'd started was one of the upper decks, below only the helipad and (of course) the derrick for how high it was off the water.  So ground zero for us was already a good, oh, eighty to a hundred feet above the water surface.  Then the crane lifted us up another twenty or thirty feet.  Problem was, the tender was no longer in position beneath the crane.

It's hard, and dangerous, for an unattached boat to try to hold position sten-in toward a rig, for very long.  It's a precarious position relative to the rig, and of course, waves and currents can sweep the boat left or right and just make a mess of things.  So really, it makes sense that the boat would have to vacate the area and then re-set for each transfer.

Problem was, the boat was now a good half a mile off, and seemed to be showing no signs of moving.  It was almost as if they'd forgotten about us, like, "Oh...you mean you wanted us to bring some other folks back in, too?....oh, OK, I guess so."

Now, I hate heights.  I mean, I really hate heights.  Like Indiana Jones hates snakes, like cats hate water, I hate heights.  So we were now just hanging there, maybe 120 or even 150 feet above the water.

Did you know that, when you fall from 90 feet, water is as hard as concrete?  It is.  That's due to a phenomenon called surface tension, basically that the water molecules are very close together, compared to the air, and kind of hold onto each other.  Not as hard as, say, iron atoms do in metal, but hard enough from 90 feet to make life very uncomfortable.  Guys who jump from that height to escape burning vessels break their legs.

Of course, the crane is a strong crane, rated to lift many tons, used regularly to transfer steel and other supplies back and forth.  This is remarkably little consolation when you're swinging in the breeze at a nauseating height above the water.  All that matters is the height.

And I wasn't alone.  The poor cook was panicking, in that stone-cold-expressionless-is-he-even-breathing? kind of panic, the kind of thing which I imagine might make him think about looking for a less-well-paying job ashore.  He couldn't even answer a question when one of the other guys (obnoxiously--just leave him alone man!) asked if he was okay.  Obviously he wasn't.

The boat still wasn't showing signs of moving, a good minute or two later--quite a long time when dangling over the water at a deadly height--so the crane operator lowered us to more like twenty feet off the water.  This was actually a gigantic relief, because a fall from that height is not nearly as big a deal.


Then the crane man decided to mess with us.


Not much, admittedly, but enough.  He raised the basket back up to 100 feet or so, and then lowered us back down to boat level, and then back up again to 40 or 50 feet.  By this time the boat was moving in, so we could all breath a sigh of relief (and the cook could just breathe), but much more of that and I'd have started getting angry.  And thought about filing some kind of complaint.  Not to be prissy about things, but I just don't like heights.


Anyway, we safely got on the boat and left.

Thursday, June 7, 2012

The Shining


Okay, not quite.  There are no monstrous evil presences on this platform that I can detect (not even after beans), and I’m not sitting around slowly becoming murderous while typing over and over “All work and no play makes Mike a very dull boy.”

But this is a very confining space, not unlike the Overlook Hotel in winter.  While in transit, we have no satellite link, and we’re too far from shore to communicate via cell phone.  (Though in a cruel twist my cell does pick up a roaming frequencyband, but I think that’s just the platform’s dedicated satellite phone.  I try to make a call on it anyway once a day but it never works.  At least, it hasn’t yet.)

And even though I have roughly 20 gigs of books (hellllllooooo, Pirate Bay!) on this little computer of mine, well, sort of like having 250+ channels on your TV but no lease on life, it gets kind of old.  (Especially when I realize that about 4 gigs—all the earth science and astronomy—are corrupt PDFs and won’t open.  I was looking forward to the Encyclopedia of the Solar System!  But all isn’t lost.  I still have nearly all of the Cambridge Histories, which would take me about fifteen years to read, not to mention the acoustics books that I need to study.)

But being cooped up is a bad thing.  I need some physical variety, a bit of activity, in order to tolerate sitting down for any length of time and concentrating.  As my mother told me, I’m not a true hyperactive (people who compulsively keep moving at all times), but I’m kind of borderline.  A confined space is not a healthy environment for me, especially when I can’t communicate with my family or get any information about the world.

(Thoreau, I’m not.  As he put it, a ten-year-old newspaper would tell him as much about current events as he ever needed to learn.  And this is true: there’s always trouble, and we humans are still vicious.  So it’s not really news.)

Enforced idleness is a chance for the mental bedbugs to come crawling out and rule the night.  In my case, the bedbugs are green and wear white a white capital D on their backs.  They sing a rasping and malicious chorus of dreams strangled by cowardice and drowned with alcohol.  Even the knowledge that I have a wonderful family, who all make me glad every day for the accidents and choices that brought them into my life, isn’t much defense against these bugs.  Because they wake up memories of my earlier life, before I met Kate, before Eva and Eliot were born or conceived.  The only cure is kind of a therapy, how I force myself to walk through the choices I did—and did not—make as a younger man, and understand myself better now.

In one of his interviews, Joseph Campbell (my intellectual hero) talked about identifying your most cherished possession, goal, facet of your life—and then giving it up.  Willingly letting it go.  Now there is a mystery in this, how abandoning the one thing you wanted most, gives you a lighthearted kind of courage to pursue the rest.  Only I’m a congenital worrier (like Kate is), so lighthearted courage is an ephemeral thing at best in me.  More often, what I’d call courage is deciding “*bleep* this, I’m sick and tired of how this is going,” and then acting to make a change.  (Kate has seen exactly this response in me many times.  It leads to mixed results.)

More often than not, when the bedbugs are rasping their evil chorus, any fresh determination  I find within myself is of this sort.   I missed my chance in college to start putting my empathetic instincts and my love of attention to work in an acting career.  There are times, like when I’m sitting idle in a floating metal shed on the hot water of the Gulf of Mexico, that I wonder what on earth I’ve done so wrong.  And the one coherent answer I have, is that my life is much more than time spent in a metal shed on the water.

Furthermore, it's not all unrelated to Kate, Eva and Eliot.  There are many nights--at home or away--when I lie, eyes open in bed, terrified that my irresponsibility with money (buying a condo before I'd gotten a job?  And worse, at the height of the price bubble?  Come on.) and my wandering career choices have doomed my wife and children to struggling, semi-poor lives.  That would be an outcome for which I can't forgive myself.  

So let’s just say this has been a buggy week.  Living in a small metal shed with nowhere to go and nothing to do but read will be like that.  (For the record: I like to read.  I don’t love to read.  I own a lot of books.  That was mostly therapeutic shopping in years past.  I mean, hey, it’s possible to have a sense of humor about things and say that I’m a good working example of a lot of 20th- and 21st-century neuroses.  But anyway…)

That’s exactly the problem with idle time on the water.  Altogether too much “me” time.  The crevices of your navel start to resemble the Himalaya.  So the real cure, I suppose (since there will always be bedbugs in my mind) is a return to life where things are actually happening--that is, leaving the Overlook Hotel behind.

Kansas Is Flatter than a Pancake


Someone recently did a geometrical comparison between the topography of Kansas and the roughness of an ordinary pancake, and found the pancake to be rougher.  So Kansas really is flatter than a pancake.  Texas isn’t flatter than a pancake, though it feels like it is.  (Before my sophomore year in college, I helped lead one of the so-called Freshman Trips, a sort of initiation rite for incoming Dartmouth freshmen run by the Outing Club.  It’s a three-day excursion, usually hiking, in backwoods New Hampshire or Vermont, concluded by an evening celebration at the college’s ravine lodge on Mount Moosilauke.  One of the incoming freshmen in my group was from Texas, and I thought he was a grandstanding liar, especially when he talked about the great piney forests of east Texas…until years later, when I learned about the great piney forests of east Texas.)

But Brownsville is sloped enough to go from dry land down to sea level, though tides in the Gulf of Mexico aren’t much to speak of.  In fact, if you aren’t looking for them, and paying close attention, you won’t notice any tide at all.  That tends to be the way with semi-enclosed seas, like the Gulf, or the Mediterranean (in fact the Gulf is sometimes called the American Mediterranean).

I’m on an oil drilling rig, lying in the port of Brownsville waiting to be towed out of the harbor and down along the coast to offshore Mexico, where we will potentially then be towed further offshore to the drilling location.  I say potentially, because that is of course the plan, but the offshore relocation could be immediate or a matter of a few more weeks.  If the latter, I won’t be staying on board to wait.

There are many types of drilling rigs, depending on just how particular you want to get, but I’ll break them down into three categories: (1) fixed, (2) jackup, and (3) semisubmersible.  The oldest kind, hearkening back to the development of offshore oil drilling in California and Louisiana, is fixed.  In California, the rigs were really just derricks mounted on very long piers which extended out from  the beach.  The southern half of Louisiana is basically a gigantic swamp, so piers weren’t as practical as self-standing platforms, fixed in the soil but unattached to any dry land.  The very first platform was built in 1937-8, about a mile offshore of Cameron, Louisiana, in about 14 feet of water (14 foot water depth at a mile out! Now that’s delta country).  The pilings were driven deep into the mud and sand, and a deck was built 15 feet above the water, designed to detach and float away in the event of a hurricane, so as not to pull up all the pilings with it.  In 1940 this design was vindicated, as a hurricane destroyed the deck but left most of the pilings, so the platform could be rebuilt.  The offshore oil industry was off and running.
 
Such fixed platforms were the standard throughout the subsequent decades, but eventually, the water depths (over 1000 feet) became prohibitive in building the enormous leg structures.  By the 50's, a second kind of rig had already become common: the jackup, basically a mobile version of the fixed platform.  Jackups have three or four legs which can be cranked up or down, and the platform thus jacked up over a specific location in the water for drilling.  Cranking the legs down and planting them on the sea floor is known as “pinning”.  The rig might have its own motor, and be able to power itself to its next location, or it might require towing.  This kind of mobile platform is economical for exploration in the event that no oil is found (known as a dry well, though there is always water).  Movable rigs save the expense of building permanent fixtures where finding oil is uncertain—that is, for all exploration--and the same rig can be used to drill many different wells at different spots.  Functionally, jackups operate in maximum depths of 300 feet.  Longer legs become structurally impractical.

In 1988 Shell commissioned the tallest fixed oil rig in history, Bullwinkle, in the Gulf of Mexico.  The platform stands over 1700 feet (nearly 500 m) above the sea floor.  But transporting, positioning and successfully sinking (on its feet and not it side) such huge leg assemblies was risky and difficult.  And the search for oil was already moving deeper.




For this deeper water the semisubmersible was developed, the giants of today, huge platforms of over 300’ on a side, sitting on gargantuan

pontoons.  The rig is towed out to its drilling location and the pontoons partially filled with water, so that the hull sinks to a depth below ordinary wave depth (i.e. out of range of all wave motion except for hurricanes), while the platform deck is more than 50 feet above the water.  This provides enough stability, considering the size of the platform, for drilling operations, and is tall enough to keep the deck equipment from being ruined by the waves of a hurricane.  This type of platform is known, straightforwardly enough, as a semisubmersible.  They are quite complex now, self-propelled and using GPS and computer models to position themselves dynamically to within a few centimeters’ accuracy.  The Deepwater Horizon was such a rig, going to show (again, as ever) that the fanciest tools count for nothing against human recklessness and incompetence.

The Noble Tom Jobe, where I am, is no such giant.  It’s a modest enough three-legged jackup, with legs over 200 feet tall, due to be towed by three tugs down to Mexico.  The quarters are identical to every survey and research vessel (except for the Persistence, but that was just a fire boat unfit for survey work) I’ve ever boarded.  That is to say, steel and composite flooring, plastic paneled walls, fluorescent lighting, the annoying stench of Simple Green, and piercingly cold air conditioning in the bunks.  The food’s about as bad as any other ship, too.  There’s one somewhat subtle difference: the crew’s quarters are a three-story structure toward the bow of the rig, so you go up and down the stairs much more than you would in a ship, which tends to be longer and not so vertical. 

But the biggest difference between a ship and a rig is the deck.  On a ship, you generally have open space at the bow and stern, where you can walk out and enjoy a bit of a view, perhaps feel some of the spray (provided it’s not an ice-cold shower bath).  On a rig, there is no such place except for the helideck, which is frighteningly exposed (for someone fearful of heights like I am), and of course off-limits (for exactly that reason) except for those getting on or off the helicopter, and the landing crew.  Otherwise, the deck is cramped with the huge machinery needed to drill for oil: cranes, tanks full of drilling mud (pumped into the borehole for two reasons: to lubricate the drill bit and, by means of its weight, to keep oil, gas and other pore fluids in the rock from rushing to the surface—which is what happened to the Deepwater Horizon), the drilling derrick.  It’s a crowded, dangerous, dirty, ugly space, befitting the complexity and difficulty of the oil drilling industry.  Rigs like this are part of the bowels of modern society as we know it.  With these machines we gain the leisurely, energy-rich life we know.  For how much longer is a very good question.

I have lots of down time, particularly when the rig is being moved (as we are now—the tugs are rotating the rig in preparation for tomorrow morning’s departure).  I’ve run a few very basic tests on the sonar units, but haven’t even put them in the water.  I might not get that chance.  My job here is to operate a small scanning sonar—like a sidescan, only it’s not a torpedo-like fish that we tow, but instead a little cylinder that I drop into the water and rotate—to take an image of the seafloor where we might put the legs down, in order to verify that there are no hazards (like equipment or big holes).  I’m basically part of the insurance policy against a storm, if the rig needs to put its legs down and ride out rough weather while the tugs cast off and leave.  If all goes well on this transit, I will have no work to do but remain on standby.

There are worse ways to support the family, I guess.