Friday, October 31, 2014

Adventures in Porch Renovation


           So we have this beautiful, three-sides-of-the-house wraparound porch, more than eight feet wide, with recessed lighting, two sets of chairs on either end, and a beautiful pine paneled ceiling. It was the feature that first drew me to the house. It's wide enough for Eva to ride her bike back and forth on. It's great.

            I had a few big projects lined up for this year, to be finished before the first snow:

            (1) Stain the rear deck;
            (2) Build a woodshed beneath the deck;
            (3) Fill said woodshed with firewood;
            (4) Remediate the high radon count in the basement;
            (5) Stain and urethane the porch ceiling.

I've always wanted, as part of my big wraparound porch, to have a maritime-looking ceiling of richly stained reddish gold, gleaming brightly with a shiny finish. And I was going to have that by snowfall this year, by gum.

            The house has a number of other minor problems, the worst being the radon and bad or absent flashing on the two exterior doors from the kitchen, leading to the deck and the porch. The deck flashing is fixed, and hopefully the carpenter ants living in the formerly wet wood are no longer so happy. Soon enough we'll have an exterminator come make sure. But when we had the deck flashing repaired, the carpenter looked at the deck itself and remarked that it needed preservative.

            "I know," I answered. "I plan to let it dry for a few more days and then stain it."

            "You should pressure wash it first," he told me, "that'll allow the stain to seep that much farther into the wood."

            "I don't want to get the wood any wetter than it already is,though. It's been raining quite a bit for the past few weeks."

            "The mold and mildew which grows on the wood impedes moisture from leaving. The wood will actually dry more quickly if you pressure wash it first."

            Now that remark struck me. I wouldn't have guessed that. (Too bad I hadn't asked around and gotten that advice last year, when I tried to stain the deck at the farmhouse. A month later, the pigment was peeling off the moldy, still-wet wood.) I snooped around a bit online, and asked a few other carpenters, and got confirmation of what he'd told me. Pressure washing is the first step in rehabbing wood that hasn't been preserved in a while.

            So I went to the local hardware store that Saturday, rented the pressure washer, brought it home and got ready to work. I figured two days would be enough. On day one, I'd tackle the deck and the beams along the base of the porch, the unstained ones that support the floorboards, and which you can see from the yard. On day two, I'd zip through the porch ceiling.

            That afternoon I got going on the deck, a little later than I'd hoped, but still, making good progress. The pressure washer was a gas-powered motor running an air compressor and merging the compressed air with water from our garden hose. Three hours on the deck and I was done. An hour on the porch support beams and I was done with those. I was feeling pretty good about myself when we sat down for dinner.

            The next day was Sunday, and Kate was taking the kids to church, to be followed by an afternoon cookout. They'd be home by about four or five, by which time I figured to have the porch ceiling thoroughly washed. After perhaps a week of drying, it'd be ready to stain. Kate left and I fired up the pressure washer and got to work.

            The first thing I noticed was, washing something over my head is a lot more awkward than washing something under my feet. Specifically, I was getting soaked, and very cold. Perhaps it was just inexperience, or some native stupidity shining through, but it took me over an hour to work out a comfortable angle to hold the wand--the long metal rod that the combined air/water mix came shooting out of--at which the wood would be cleaned, and I wouldn't get soaked. But by that time I was already soaked, so the first day was kind of a loss that way.

            The next issue had cropped up within the first five minutes, however. I had assumed that the job would be quick and easy, a light pass of the water jet over wood that wasn't very dirty, as it wasn't exposed to sun or rain, and wasn't walked on. Except, the opposite was true. A few quick sweeps back and forth with the wand showed the wood to be a bit lighter, but when I slowed the wand down to change direction, I noticed that the wood was far cleaner, looking a bright golden-orange, there. And pretty quickly it dawned on me: this wood, not sanded, with plenty of roughness to trap dust and mold spores, was even dirtier, for being rough, always in the shade, and protected from rain which would pelt it and wash spores away. The porch ceiling was not a quick, easy cleaning job. Not at all. On the contrary: it was going to be a long, slow, tedious, neck-straining, sore-shoulder job.

            And worse than that: after an hour and a half, the pressure washing stream failed. It just stopped. But the motor was still running. I let it sit idle for a few minutes, and then tried again. Still nothing. I started getting a bad feeling, turned off the motor, shut off the hose, went inside the house, and tried the kitchen faucet.

            Nothing.

            I went down to the basement bathroom, and tried that faucet.

            Nothing.

            I went to the water pump, and turned it off and then back on.

            No sound of water rushing in.

            Then I realized the main limitation of using a pressure washer: you need lots and lots of water. I'd been running the hose at full blast, pretty much, for four and a half hours that day. Of course I'd killed the well. In retrospect, it was pretty stupid of me to not anticipate this.

            So now I had to sheepishly call Kate, tell her I'd killed the well, and ask her to buy several gallons of bottled water on her way home. She graciously did this, and even more graciously didn't scold me when she got home. We had dinner, she eating patiently and I in morose silence. I couldn't shower, which probably wasn't all that necessary since I'd been dripping wet anyway, but it left me feeling even more dissatisfied.

            I got up early the next morning and the water was back on. Encouraged, I made the morning coffee, and once Kate had taken off with the kids for Eliot's preschool, I got to work again on the porch. I figured, two hours a day and no more, and I'd have the porch licked in three more days. That was three more days than I'd planned on, but as contingencies go, I could do worse.

            And I did do worse. After an hour and a half, the pressure washer stream failed again. I turned the motor off, shut off the hose, and checked the kitchen faucet.

            I'd killed the well again.

            Since it was earlier in the day, I was hoping that the water would come back by evening, and Kate would never know.

            No such luck.

            So the poor woman was now heading into her third day without a shower. I was better off because I'd been drenched both days, even though I was shivering cold. But now I was looking at an increasingly impaired well, less than halfway done with the cleaning, with lumps of wet sawdust covering the side of the house.

            See, that's what a pressure washer can do, so you have to be careful with it: the stream of water can actually cut wood, so you have to keep it moving at all times, or it starts to dig a channel into the wood you're aiming at. If you were to look closely at the wood I'd cleaned, you'd notice many areas where I'd slowed down with the stream and gouged the wood a bit. But that's what leaves the wood so clean: the pressure washer was actually removing anywhere from one-sixteenth to one-thirty-second of an inch of wood, exposing a clean surface underneath. And it did look good.

            But the washed-off wood, sort of a lumpy paste, settled wherever. On the walls of the house facing the porch. On the railings. On the floor. On the grass. On me. It was a mess. A really, really, ugly, bad mess. And it was only halfway done. And now I had to wait for a few days, plainly, for the well to recover before I could get back to work.

            In an ugly state of mind, I brought the pressure washer back to the hardware store that afternoon, having rented it for two more days than I'd planned, and knowing that I'd need at least three more. Also knowing that I had to wait a week, with the porch area looking like a disaster zone, unable to use my hose to clean anything off. I was feeling pretty discouraged. And even though Kate valiantly continued to make no complaints, it wasn't until the following evening that our water returned sufficiently for her to take a small shower.

            I had plenty of other things, like the woodshed, to work on in the meantime. But I was still brooding over the porch. A week later I went back to the hardware store, got the pressure washer and brought it home, this time with a grim determination to finish the job. An hour and a half maximum, every day, until I was done. That was the plan.

            Except that I made it only an hour and a quarter on the first day before killing the well again. Now this time I was ready--I had ten gallons of water in jugs in the basement--and Kate had gotten a shower that morning. But I still couldn't believe how low the well still was. I started feeling grateful that I hadn't killed it altogether. But I decided I'd have to wait one full day before trying again. So, two days later, I tried again. One hour got me across the entire front of the porch, with only a small section of wraparound remaining, and I didn't kill the well this time. I could taste it now.

            The next morning I got up, calmly confident, and got to work. Forty-five minutes later, the job was done.  Three killings of the well, one full week of rental (Kate was right: it might have been cheaper for me to buy one of those things), and one horrendous mess later, the entire porch ceiling was clean It was a warm yellow with a reddish grain, just inviting a good coat of stain and then some preservative. But seeing as how the wood never saw sunlight, and only ventilated on one side, I wanted to let it dry for at least two weeks before applying stain. So I got back to work on staining the deck, and the floor beams, and getting the big pile of wood out of the driveway and into the shed.

            An inspection job fell through, and I found myself with two addtional weeks at home. Where I'd assumed that I'd be rushing the staining/urethaning job in October, with days barely warm enough for work, I now had four straight days of 70+ degrees to do it. And I did.

            First I taped and tarped off the house and railings. Sort of like the pressure washing, what I'd assumed would be a quick job was very slow. Instead of three or four hours, it took me twelve or thirteen. Then I rented the spray gun. Unfortunately, urethane is too gluey to spray, so once I was done with the stain, I was going to be using a brush. Forty-five minutes with the sprayer and I was done. The work went so quickly that I didn't have any time to improve my technique by the time I'd finished. And that meant I left stripes all over the ceiling, where I'd stopped sweeping the sprayer in one direction, and started moving it in the other direction. So I had a red-and-purplish zebra stripe effect.

            When Kate got home she either put on a brave face, or honestly wasn't very concerned, because she looked at the red-and-purple stripes and said, "Hmm, yeah, I can see them ,but they're not too obvious." I think she was trying to make me feel better, because later she suggested rolling some paint thinner over the purple parts. I agreed, and I tried, and it sort of worked: the stripes were a little more blurry, not quite as sharply defined. But they definitely weren't gone.

            So I figured, somewhat desperately, that once I'd put on the urethane, the urethane itself would even out the tone somewhat. I was really, really hoping this. I mean, urethane does darken wood! Especially the oil-based stuff, which I was using.

            So now started the most difficult and annoying part of the job, by far. Yes, the pressure washing was annoying, but mostly because I kept killing the well, not because it was difficult. If I'd had a water truck instead of the well, I could have done the whole job in one afternoon, or at least by noon of the next day. The machine was doing all the work. I was just aiming it. And the staining was even easier than I'd expected, which is why I wound up screwing it up so badly.  It almost made me angry that it wasn't tougher.

            But urethane is too thick for sprayers (well, for ordinary sprayers you can rent from the hardware store, anyway. Maybe there's a super-duper one out there that can handle it--I bet NASA or the Air Force or Navy has a few). Anyway, I was going to have to brush it on. I was hoping that the job would take four hours, or even six. Two coats--though the instructions on the cans recommended three for outdoors--in two or three days.

            Put on my painter's hat (a ratty old Iron Man cap), my crappiest jeans and sneakers, and one of the T-shirts that's really old and holey which Kate hates. And long rubber gloves. Then I got to work.

            Pretty soon it became clear that this was more like an 8-to-10-hour job. Craning my neck back--the ceiling is a hair over seven feet tall, so I can reach it without a stool, but not without leaning back and arching my neck--and relying mostly on my stronger right arm, I went slowly along. I didn't quite finish the entire porch on the first day--8 hours left me with about ten feet undone, but it was 6 PM and I was getting hungry.

            I was also covered in urethane, to the point that my clothes were beyond salvage. So I dumped them all in the back yard, got a shower, and picked out another set of expendable shoes and T-shirt for the next day. I was up and at it by 8:30 AM. It was a Saturday, and Kate took Eva and Eliot out for the day, so I was on my own with my Felger & Mazz sports podcast, a brush, my ratty clothes, and six gallons of urethane. It's gluey stuff, and especially with the second coat, it can be hard sometimes to see which portions you've already brushed, and which you haven't. I had to walk in circles sometimes, looking at a patch of ceiling from several different directions, to see if it was more or less reflective than the area around it.

            But mostly I was just getting progressively stickier and more sore, even as I made steady headway. Several times I thought about putting the brush down and do the remainder on Sunday. But I knew I'd curse myself as a lazy slob, and worse, that there was a decent chance I wouldn't bother to finish the job. I knew pushing on now was my only guarantee of finishing.

            And I did, though not before Kate and the kids came home. I'd been hoping to be done, feel like a boss, clean up and have the shining porch ceiling ready for them to see when they walked up. Instead, the porch was still a mess of tarps and tape, plastic was still all over the front of the house, and I was a sweating mess dripping with curses and urethane. But I was almost done.

            And when I did finish, and decided against doing a third coat on Sunday, and pulled down the plastic, I didn't feel like a boss, but I did feel relieved. I'd finished the job, we'd have a warm, inviting porch that wasn't growing moldier by the day, and I hadn't even killed the well a fourth time. And you know what? The urethane did even out the stripes. If you look hard, you can still see them. But they don't slap you in the face like a neon sign saying "INCOMPETENT!"

           Now I've got my force-field-of-inviting-warmth porch . And I've also got my outdoor slippers-on coffee comfort station. Home improvement, accomplished.





Wednesday, October 29, 2014

The Road to Fryeburg


           Kate and I, as I mentioned in my Catching Up post, have bounced between several addresses over the past few years. When I met her in August of 2008, I was living in a condominium at Hamilton Harbor, an area south of Wickford, itself a village of North Kingstown, Rhode Island. It was an old factory building featuring brick walls and gigantic windows and a loft-type interior, all of which pleased my bachelor self hugely. But then the economy tanked in 2008, I lost job after job (including being laid off three weeks before our marriage), and holding onto the condo became an increasingly difficult challenge.

            In April 2010 I was diagnosed with ulcerative colitis--an annoying chronic inflammation of the colon--and a few weeks later landed in the ER when that inflammation led to a perforation in the colon. I was probably a few hours away from needing a colectomy--getting the whole thing removed--but I responded well to steroids, the colon cooled down--i.e. the inflammation went down--and was soon after able to resume living normally again. (Except for the  steroids I was on for a few months, which gave me an inhuman amount of energy. I averaged about 45 minutes of sleep a night for the next two months.) The most significant single event during my 3-day hospital stay, however, was Kate's mother looking me in the eye and telling me I needed to declare bankruptcy.

            Those weren't words I wanted to hear, of course. I'm all the more thankful now that she told me, though. That kind of direct honesty is one of the finest shows of love that can be. I swallowed the idea--it was bitter--and began thinking of ways to not go bankrupt. Even facing the possibility, me, a bank president's son, was humiliating enough, but I didn't want to crush my credit rating for the next seven years and deal with the awful bankruptcy laws recently rewritten to so favor the banks. I was determined to find a way to avoid it. So we sold our car--a Toyota 4Runner that we both loved--and downgraded first to a jalopy old Dodge pickup, which was about to break down a month later when Kate used her (much better than mine) credit to buy a new Corolla. We could manage the payments, and we found over the next four years that Corollas are the most boring, but probably the most dependable, and among the most economical, cars on the planet. So we had some quick cash to stave off immediate disaster, but I still had some other debts to deal with.

            That summer was the summer of the Deepwater Horizon, and I spent several months of it offshore, looking for plumes of oil in the water with sonar. It was a fascinating and awesome project to be involved in--the awe in proportion to the extent of the devastation--and I made lots of money. But that money was mostly going toward settlement agreements for a credit card and a few personal loans, and pretty much nothing toward mortgage payments on the condo, which at this point were 3-4 months in arrears. We had moved up to Kate's mother's and stepfather's home in Greenwood, Maine--a farmhouse we would occupy a few years later--and paid no rent, while I funneled all my earnings into settling my old debts.

            That left the condo, which I was trying to sell, and would have, for a tidy profit, had the buyer not (correctly) balked at the ridiculously high monthly maintenance fee. So we were left with a short sale, which was far better than a foreclosure. And having sold almost all of our furniture we limped off to one half of a duplex on Coolidge Street, about five miles down the road from our old condo.

            I have fond memories of that home. I forgot the wound to my pride from having to leave my prior home, and found raising our new child Eva--since Kate was working and I wasn't--to be a bigger challenge than any job I'd ever had. Learning to respond to, and care for, a little child who has very little power over anything, and has only her feelings as a means of influence, was an experience I'll always treasure. I got to know my own daughter, and I'll always be grateful that I wasn't working for those several months, and we had the chance to go down to the beach on walks (we lived about a mile from a scrubby patch of shoreline), or throw rocks at puddles (her favorite pastime), or just lie down and let her climb all over me like a jungle gym. The house was forgettable but our family wasn't.

            Soon enough after that I was sufficiently recovered mentally to start plotting the next steps in my stalled career. I decided pursuing acoustics and seafloor mapping at UNH made sense--it was more or less an extension of the seafloor geology I'd been working on at URI--and offered better prospects of a commercial career on the other side. But Kate was now pregnant with Eliot, and wouldn't hear of being marooned in an apartment while I spent days at school. It was pretty hard to deny her that--chasing Eva around while not pregnant or caring for an infant was work enough, as I'd learned--so our compromise was, we moved to within easy driving distance of Kate's mom and father-in-law. That meant Rumford Point.

            I've joked with Kate's mother--I now call her Ma--and Dave, her stepfather, that they're the subprime Trumps of Oxford County. Their business over the last several years has been buying distressed homes, rehabbing them, and either renting them out as budget dwellings, or selling them again. Dave had rehabbed a building in downtown Bethel and turned it into a Korean restaurant, Cho Sun, still successful and run by his son Brian. Ma had gotten her start in real estate buying a small one-bedroom cottage in the tiny enclave of Rumford Point, a village-in-miniature on the northern bank of the Androscoggin River, where Route 232 crosses on a rickety old bridge (now being replaced). A few impressive old homesteads are there, along with the decaying remnants of a few more, and a handful of tiny little homes. Ma had bought one of the tiny little homes, her very first real estate purchase, and more recently she and Dave had bought its tiny little neighbor, at 1750 Route 2. And that's the home Kate and I moved into in August 2011.

            Not much more than a week after we moved in, Eliot was born. Kate had shown signs of pre-eclampsia during latter stages of her pregnancy, and the hospital induced her. He shot out of her--she describes the birth as far more painful than Eva's, because of the speed--and now we had a son. He was very small--less than five pounds--and Kate wanted him right next to her almost all the time, especially for sleep. And now, as we settled into our new little home next to the river in Maine, we had a new little member of the family with us too.

            Our house measured perhaps 25 feet on a side, with a dug-out basement, and a mostly-intact barn attached behind, and features a 1/2 acre yard which showed evidence, the more I tended it, of once having been a gardening work of art, with perfectly placed shrubs, flowers and trees, and a beautiful little garden patch nearly as big as the house. The barn was the treasure, but also the liability: one corner was rotten and starting to fall down, and there was a large gap in the siding there. Not long after we moved in I began forming ideas of tossing a slab beneath the barn, rehabbing the interior into a post-and-beam bedroom/dining room/upstairs great hall. Big old barns have lots of potential, provided they're not falling down. But we had more immediate concerns, so Dave and I spent one Saturday racing to patch up the huge hole in the siding of the barn as Hurricane Irene bore down on us. We finished up and put the tools back in his truck just as the first drops were starting to fall.

            The family who lived there before us numbered 7: two parents, one son, and six(!) daughters. In a house of four rooms, where the bathroom was so small that it didn't have a sink. Seriously, the bathroom had a toilet and a shower, but to wash your hands or shave, you had to go into the kitchen. Eva had the bedroom, where the six daughters had slept. Kate and I were in the former living room, which was just big enough for our king size bed, the bassinet, two bureaus, and a bookshelf, and where the son had once slept on the couch. The small room in the middle, without windows, became Eliot's nursery, and had once been the master bedroom. (I'm not sure even a double bed would have fit in there.) And then there was the kitchen, almost as big as the other rooms together, which connected to the barn, and was really where we lived in that house. One corner with two love seats and the computer/TV became the coffee nook. The other corner became Eva's toy patch. Our table was in the middle and the rest of the place was ringed by shelves and counters. It was actually a bright and cheery little house, but we didn't have a woodstove and the electric heating cost more than our rent.

            As we were moving up--and Kate being pregnant, I did 95% of the work, and I was pretty glad to be moved in--I remarked to her that I felt like my life was taking a big step backwards, moving to a tiny town near the decayed remains of Rumford Falls, dozens of miles from anywhere. Kate of course started to cry immediately, as that part of Maine is where she grew up, and the house next to ours was the first one her mother had ever owned. My words were cruel but my pride was wounded at still being economically in retreat. But once we'd moved in, we began making a home of the place. I never entirely repented of my initial proud reaction, but I came to genuinely love that cute little home, and have an affinity for the arresting beauty and older-world charm of Rumford, in its several town centers.

            My first two jobs were to clear out all the brush on the front side of the house, and to clean up the dump behind it. Anyone who's moved into a moderately old New England home, or even just near one, has dealt with middens. Piles of trash left in strategically hard-to-see places, which in modern days, are composed of hundreds (or thousands) of bottles and cans. They're downright hazardous to people walking and living there. And this was a spreading pile of garbage and old metal debris, twelve feet by twenty feet, neatly tucked in the corner formed behind the house and the barn. Every week I made a point of taking some more trash for pickup. And slowly the pile went away.

            We were making our way through our first winter in Rumford, with me chasing down to Durham, NH two or three times a week, when Kate's mother told us in February that she had good news: we could move into their cabin in Greenwood, a larger home with wood heating and closer to her and Dave, that March, during my university vacation. Only Kate and I weren't so sure this was good news. Moving into the cabin, and staying at the same monthly rent (for now) in a nicer home, was good. (All this came about because some of their renters had washed out, and we were taking someone else's place in a more expensive property. It was a cash flow thing. The subprime Trumps have had their share of washouts to deal with.) But, moving, with three weeks' notice, in March, with an infant and a toddler, wasn't so good.

            But we decided we were game and went for it. Three and a half weeks later we were in the cabin, and had a big, haphazard pile of firewood in the driveway, and we were reasonably happy. The cabin was bigger, though it was certainly darker--the windows were smaller and far more scattered, and the place was surrounded by drooping pines and firs--it reminded me of Shelley's tomb in Ravenna, with the weeping firs around and overhead. Or the opening scene in Hyperion, deep in the shady sadness of a vale. Despite my distaste for the darkness, we both greatly preferred a hot wood stove to electric baseboard heating. I didn't see the same long-term potential for us to expand this house like I had the little one in Rumford, but I had no doubt we could be happy there for two or three years--basically until Eliot was big enough to need a genuine room of his own.

            Once springtime arrived I could start addressing the exterior. I never came close to doing that cabin's yard the justice it deserved. (Dave and Ma now, having moved back into the cabin, have mostly resuscitated the yard to its former beauty.) But one thing I did attack was the garage. At that moment, spring 2012, it was pretty much a tiny closet, with an even bigger mess behind it. See, Kate's mom has had several incarnations of a small farm at her houses through the years, including such animals as chickens (lots of chickens), roosters, ducks, rabbits (lots of rabbits), llamas, and a goat. Or two. I'm pretty sure the garage had served as a stall for the goat.

            Whatever the animals were that had been in there, their stalls were pretty much intact from the day they left. Sawdust, scat, everything. I meant to use that garage as a woodshed and workshop, which meant the goat scat and sawdust had to go. So I cleared out the skis and bikes and everything else in the front of the garage, got my shovel, and got to work on the sawdust and scat. It took me two and a half days, but I got that place cleaned out. (I counted wheelbarrow loads--I think it was 36.) After a week of that place airing out, I started building a wooden frame to hold the wood pile, next to my work bench. Soon enough I had a nicely stacked store of wood and a modest work bench. And of course Kate had added her touches inside the cabin, including the pillowed and lighted nook in the window at the rear of the kitchen, and we had ourselves our new home.  Eva had her own bedroom in the middle of the cabin, and Eliot his on the converted porch in front of Eva's room, and Kate and I managed to fit our king sized bed--now a handsome log version--into the master bedroom. It didn't leave space for much else, but so what? We love that bed.

           As spring became summer, the cabin's charm grew to its maximum. Warm evenings, when the rest of the world was ten degrees hotter, beneath the trees and next to the pond we were cool. In the late afternoon and evening the pond was a mirror, a second sunset from below. And even though our attempt at a vegetable garden was a disgraceful failure, still, the place was lush (too lush!) and peaceful. And as Eva's play (to a lesser extent Eliot's) began to move outdoors, it was good to have a credible outdoors for her to move into.

            In January of 2013 I was diagnosed with PSC, and what was already a rather dark home became intolerably, oppressively so, as I staggered with the new reality that my liver is a slowly sinking ship, and I can't assume my own longevity. I didn't necessarily associate the diagnosis with the house, but I came to hate, viscerally, the shadows and low windows of the place. Even the cool summer evenings with the sunset on the pond, like a bayou, couldn't make up for the angry panic I found myself in that winter. I knew I wanted to leave, and when we got the chance, once again care of Kate's mom and stepdad, we jumped.

            The move was to the white farmhouse, also in Greenwood, which they'd bought four years earlier. It turned out that they liked the cabin better, and now that we were there (and finally paying them a fair market rate rent), they wanted to swap. So, in May of 2013, we did. And we made a handshake agreement to buy the farmhouse, perched on the side of Noyes Mountain, once we were ready. The house is attached to an old barn, and has about 2.2 acres of sloping land and a small pond. We had the pond deepened, started clearing away some of the overgrowth (my tastes in landscaping are a little different from Ma and Dave's), and we began plotting what changes we were going to make on the 150+ year old house.

            Of course, my first course of action, other than some outdoor trimming, was another cleanup job. More animals. They'd kept a chicken coop in the ground level of the barn, and now that the chickens were gone, I wanted the coop gone too, so we could put down some pebbles and use the space as a garage. So, like before, I ripped out the wood, got my shovel, and started hauling. Only the chickens had been there for more time than the goat had been in the other garage, it seemed. Because it felt to me like there was twice as much sawdust and scat to haul. Maybe it was because it was raining, and maybe it's because the much-fresher chicken scat smelled worse--a whole lot worse--than the goat dung. Because our whole yard smelled like sulfur and urine for the next three days after I'd spread that stuff out below the pond. (On a related note, the clover and grass now grow phenomenally well there.) Once again, after airing it out for a few days, I had my woodshed. Of course, the Subaru barely fit in the ad-hoc garage--we would tap the foundation of the barn with the front bumper, and that's how we knew we could close the overhead door behind it--but we had a reasonably convenient winter setup. As long as you didn't mind a long, narrow staircase between your car and the living room.

            By the time we moved into the farmhouse, Eva was a talkative, active little girl who happily turned whatever room or house she was in into her own imaginative kingdom. Eliot was walking, but his demeanor to this day is quieter and milder than his sister's, frequently content to follow along with what she's doing, or quite capable of simply disengaging from people and focusing on something by himself. But our two kids began at once claiming the bigger, draftier house as their own.

            For my part, I came to admire how shrewdly farmers in years past built their homes to maximize the sun's effect, and minimize the weather. The house faces southeast, with eight windows drinking in sunlight, and is on the southeastern slope of the mountain, shielded by the mountain itself from the northwest wind. If we'd wanted to, we could've put thirty solar panels up there and just about gone off the grid altogether. That, and the pond and the sun-bathed acreage were the best aspects of the house.

            Of course, rehabbing an old house and barn is generally an expensive proposition. Though Kate and I were happy there--despite the several dozen mice (to the point that I resorted to poison that winter)--we were becoming fearful at the amount of money we'd need, on top of buying, to update everything we wanted to. And this didn't even include the repair work the barn foundation needed. Putting a large building on a mountainside, where gravity pulls the soil downhill, comes with inherent drawbacks. The barn was without a doubt the weakest point of the house. The previous owners had already put two buttresses in the barn foundation, but that wasn't enough. More work remained to be done. Even so, despite the increasingly dire condition of the barn, that place had an awful lot of good about it.

            I'm something of a survivalist. I believe that peak oil--the increasing scarcity of supply, and resulting increase in cost of oil--and global warming form two pincers which will do increasing damage to the global economy as years go on. (Peak oil already is. Crude oil (actual crude oil, not the crude-plus-condensate figure used nowadays) production very likely peaked in 2005, and that, plus rapidly increasing demand in China and India, led to the huge price spike in 2007 which produced the global recession we're still in. With oil never likely to become as cheap as it was even in 2002 again, our economy will never recover to what it was before. So I place great value in having a well-insulated home with good gardens and access to ample water. (A good library doesn't hurt, either.) In terms of gardens and access to water, the farmhouse could not have been better.

            But we wanted a newer home, with fewer nagging issues to fix. One night in late December 2013 found me searching online through some real estate listings, and the third I came to was a gorgeous house with a big wraparound porch in the town of Fryeburg. I got the feeling right away I'd found the place. Kate saw the picture, and as we looked through the rest, she got the same feeling. Two days later, we walked in the door with the realtor. The house was cold--it was January 2, and it was heated only to 60 degrees--but even so, Eva and Eliot came charging in, took off their coats and shoes, ran upstairs and began charging through all the rooms, playing. It was at that moment that I knew we'd found the house we wanted to keep.

Thursday, October 23, 2014

Catching Up

Writing a series of quickish posts right now, so that my topics don't all run together, but I can still get a sense that I'm laying out a bit of a foundation to start my storytelling on from now and going forward, since it's been more than two years since I posted much. My liver condition and the potential remedies deserved its very own post--my panicked reaction to the diagnosis and the several months it took me to recover a sense of normalcy were the reason I stopped posting--but now life is going on. No episodes of itching, no crippling pain, no loss of work. Every now and then I feel a twinge along my ribs which makes me wonder, but so far so good. And we'll be trying that homespun remedy before the year's out.

Since then Eliot and Eva have of course continued growing up. There are lots of times when I miss my parents, but some of the most obvious come when I'm looking at my own kids wondering, "Was I that way? Or were either of my sisters that way?" Because Kate and I have a 5-year-old daughter with a loud mouth and a powerful will who loves drawing and animals of all sorts, but especially dogs and horses. I look at her and think, "In a lot of ways she's like the stories I've heard about my own mother as a girl. But she's also a lot like my own memories of my older sister Lisa." And that's one reason why I want not to curb Eva's assertiveness as a negative "she's just a bossy older sister", but cultivate it as leadership. Because my sister Lisa is a real leader even though she rarely seems to recognize it in herself. Though there are those times too, when Eva is screaming about needing to draw one more picture of a dog in sunshine, at 10:30 at night, when I'm thinking, "Shut UP and go upstairs!"

Eliot is a confounding kid sometimes--well, all kids are sometimes confounding--but this little guy, especially so. And more intensely even than Eva, he makes me want to query my parents about just how difficult, or not, I was. Was I really as moronic a mama's boy as this little guy is? Like, if he knows Mom is in the house, he won't let me do a damn thing for him. Not one--well, except maybe for bringing him some lemonade or crackers with peanut butter, or putting on a Thomas video. But sometimes, not even that much. And then when Kate leaves, and he knows she's gone? Damn kid will let me spoon lunch into his mouth (since he doesn't really love eating, either).

He's a manipulative little goofball with something like comedic genius. Watching him, and knowing what I do about myself and other friends who like (or are professionals in) the performing arts, I've come to the conclusion that most actors and singers are intense introverts. We have to be, to create the feelings and ideas which we communicate. And Eliot is absolutely such a quiet, shy, unrevealing person who will suddenly come out with something heartwarming, or hilarious, or both. Like last night:

Eliot: Mommy, where's Daddy?
Kate: He's working, honey.
Eliot: Is he in Trinidad?
Kate: Yes, he's in Trinidad.
Eliot: But we're not in Trinikid!

Or, several months ago (it was summer), walking up in a hat to Kate and her friend Jenn, who were sitting on the porch, and saying,

"I'm Santa Claus. I come in peace."

He's three. He's been joking and messing with the whole family since before he was one. Kate's friend Carla, herself (along with her husband) a longtime theater performer, was playing with an infant Eliot a few years ago, and noticed his reactions, at four months. "He's got a good sense of humor," she noted, before the little guy was half a year old. And so he's proven Carla's observation thoroughly right. I look at that sensitive little doofus and wonder, "Was my dad like this as a tyke?"

Kate's carrying #3. We don't have a name for it, like Starbuck for #1, and....I actually forget if we had a name for #2, or not. With my PSC, and with Kate having had a few complications carrying Eva and Eliot, we've been a little edgy about her progress this time around, but after two days' nausea forced her to the ER to get an IV drip to rehydrate, Kate's largely been managing. I'm in the field again--well, sort of, being in Trinidad but not on a boat--so I'm only getting phone and e-mail reports about her mild nausea while still eating decently.

We bought a new house. Not quite new--it was built in 2007--but it's been barely lived in since then and compared to the 170-year-old farmhouse we spent the previous year in, this house is brand spanking new. New windows which don't leak, new roof which doesn't sport a moss garden, new foundation not made of dry-laid rocks (though with a corresponding radon problem the old houses don't have), new insulation which means one woodstove keeps the entire house cozy, with no drafts. Oh, and the gigantic wraparound porch which I've always wanted.



We've done plenty of work on it so far this year (might be another post by itself, if I can make it funny enough), and of course there's lots more we want to do in the future. Laugh if you will, but I'm convinced that peak oil (we're at it now, or maybe even a bit past) and global warming will combine to make the economy chronically sick, and our lives increasingly difficult as the years go on. So I want a house that's robust, where we can grow enough food and fuel to, if not entirely maintain ourselves, certainly contribute susbtantially to our own maintenance.

Now Fryeburg, like most of New England, was once all farmland. Most of the forest in New England is second growth, being no more than 100-150 years old (and sometimes much younger than that). A quick walk through the woods looking at the old stone walls will convince you quickly if you don't believe it. So I hope to clear most of our trees out (Kate and I have a few minor disagreements on just how complete the clearing will be), to expose some garden area, and also to make room for other trees, fruit and nut-bearers. Apples, pears, plums, cherries, walnuts, and hazelnuts. Not only are they beautiful. but they've got crops. I'd love a front yard full of those things! It'd make sitting on the porch with an early morning (or, more in line with the Sutherland family schedule, mid- to late-morning) cup of coffee, staring at the eastern light over the mountans and through the trees.

The lawn you see in that picture is pretty much brown by September--it parches badly. The garden plot in the middle of the yard is so dry that only a few tough vegetables, like carrots and tomatoes, will grow there.  So I want to put a bunch of trees there, whose taproots will penetrate the gravel fill without a problem, and also so their shade might actually help the garden plot produce more. But the main garden will be out back, where there's no gravel fill and the too-swift drainage won't dehydrate the plants.

So that's my master plan for the sort-of homestead, as well as replacing those wretched clapboards with some vinyl, much more durable and in a color not quite so bland. (I think the name of that tone is actually Bland. Or maybe Bland/Blah.) I'm going for colonial red with white trim. Red, baby!

Now I've got plans beyond the homestead, of course. I'm not turning my back on the world at large, building a nest and hoping everything else ignores us. Every once in a while, yes. Like when I'm building the woodshed or fixing eight years' neglect of the exposed wood around the house, but not all the time. Kate and I managed to accomplish all, or nearly all, of our top-priority projects this year, so we have a warm, dry, not-getting-quickly-moldier-and-more-ant-ridden house to live in through the cold months. Next spring, with restored warmth and a (hopefully) restored bank account balance, we'll tackle the next set of challenges. Or, rather, I will, while Kate lugs #3 around while taking care of  #1 and #2.


Da Poop

Very long time with no post. I guess that summer in 2012 got busy enough, since I was finding lots of work as a freelance surveyor. But then, in January 2013, I got some very unpleasant news that left me not wanting to post, as my genuine feelings about it were too dark to want to share immediately.

I was diagnosed with a chronic degenerative liver condition, primary sclerosing cholangitis, which is associated with other digestive/autoimmune conditions such as ulcerative colitis (which I was diagnosed with in 2010), Crohn's disease, and others. Digestive diseases remain largely a mystery to modern medicine. Comparatively little is known about the human gut biome--it seems to come in three general forms, known as enterotypes, very loosely analogous to blood types--but all digestive disorders seem to be linked with, if not caused by, disturbances in the biome.

In my case, in 2007, as I was working aboard a filthy catamaran doing offshore sampling work, I came down with a series of painful skin infections, cellulitis produced by MRSA, which required aggressive antibiotics. Since I didn't take many probiotics while going through six or more courses that year, my digestive system was probably ravaged, allowing for my normal biome to be invaded by destructive interloping bacteria which have produced the conditions I deal with now. Of course, there's the possibility too that I already had lurking digestive and autoimmune conditions which were brought to light on the boat, in the form of my skin infections--a distinct possibility since as far as I know, I was the only person ever to react so badly to working on that floating toilet.

So the primary sclerosing cholangitis--PSC--is part of my package now. It's a frightening disease. It proceeds with the body building up fibrous blockages in the liver ducts--why is still a mystery, but research is zeroing in on an autoimmune response, almost if the body thinks it's allergic to its own liver.  These blockages cause bile to back up within the liver, slowly destroying it. The median is 10 years after diagnosis for a person with it to need a liver transplant, or die for lack of a new liver. As of now there's no cure. PSC recurs in 35% of transplantees.

The only measures those of us--it's a very, very rare condition--can take are simple dietary measures. Above all, reduce fat intake. So now, though I still like cheese and the occasional pizza, no pepperoni, no sausage, no bacon, no butter, no peanut butter, nothing deep fried, no heavy cream or whole milk, and I avoid most processed and pretty much all fast foods. I take a few supplements like milk thistle (anecdotally good for the liver) and fish oil (correlated with longer prognosis in PSC).

In Europe, where regulatory wheels move somewhat more quickly, a few potential drug therapies for this condition, which mediate the body's autoimmune attack on the liver, are on the horizon. The small community of PSCers is watching those tests avidly. A doctor in California, Kenneth Cox, will shortly be concluding a double-blind trial evaluating the effectiveness of the antibiotic vancomycin in treating the disease. Most of the PSCers in the online group I'm part of are skeptical. That's a healthy attitude, but this is one of those cases where hope is stronger than skepticism in me. There's also the (much) more distant, but still conceivable, therapy of growing our own replacement livers in a laboratory, but that type of procedure is still barely in development.

So far I've had no symptoms, nearly two years after diagnosis. PSC generally involves episodic pain, if an infection develops within one of the blocked-off liver ducts, or if cancer develops there. The main symptom is jaundice and severe itching, caused by the bile trapped under the skin causing irritation. The itching is severe enough to cause insomnia, but I've read that UV therapy and acupuncture are effective remedies. So I do have those in mind should I need them.

But there is another, more traditional but possibly very worthwhile, treatment for both the colitis and possibly even the PSC: fecal microbiota transplant, or FMT...or, as I call it, a poop enema. It's a technique long known to animal husbanders helping farm animals with digestive disorders. Take the poop from a healthy animal, with its healthy gut microbiome, puree it, and squirt it right into the sick one.  A number of years ago this technique was found to be almost 100% effective in treating a specific type of colitis--Clostridium difficile (C.diff) infection, a very nasty bug which resists all drugs (hence the "difficile" in the name) and kills if not treated. But a dose or two of healthy poop drives the bugs away, in nearly all cases. I'm not much of a conspiracy fantasist--I tend to roll my eyes, or do less polite things, when confronted with them--but I do believe that in this modern world of ours, many things are dictated by corporate profits. And since nobody makes much money off of recycled feces, it's not hard to understand why this procedure remains off to the side in treating a wider range of digestive ailments.

But there's a group in Australia, The Centre for Digestive Diseases, which researches exactly this topic, and explores FMT as a remedy not only for obvious candidates like ulcerative colitis and Crohn's (reasonably well established by now), but more exotic ailments like PSC (there's a small but hope-inspiring body of data that FMT helps), and even conditions like multiple sclerosis. It's immensely reassuring to know that hard science is being done on this, and that the results contribute to my hope. There's even a blog, by a gent living in Spain, which provides more anecdotal evidence and procedures.

Since mainline medicine is largely unaware of or skeptical about FMT, most folks who pursue it in the US do so at home. It's not illegal, but anyone trying it must be careful to use sterile enema equipment and rigorously cleaned pureeing equipment (i.e. a dedicated blender) and, above all, take feces only from a cleared donor. That is, a donor who's taken sufficient blood and stool tests to show that he or she has no dangerous conditions of his or her own to pass along. Once that's all done, and once you have your procedure, then go ahead and do it. Kate will serve as my donor, and I plan, once  done with this job in Trinidad, to have my colonoscopy in December and then proceed with the FMT. Not your traditional Christmas gift, even in the sense of my wife giving me a big load of crap at the holidays, but hope and life are two pretty tremendous gifts.

Wednesday, July 4, 2012

The Rig Diaries 2


Tuesday, July 3, 2012

18:45

I’ll be missing the Fourth of July with my family.  For all of the time I’ve spent away from home since meeting Kate, including when we were just dating, I’ve never missed a big date like a birthday, anniversary, or major holiday.  I don’t enjoy the thought of my little girl enjoying one of those big holidays, with fireworks and maybe a parade, while I’m not there.  It would be better for us all to be together.

I can’t think about being a United States citizen without feeling a cramp in my gut about the small minority of powerful people seeking right now to politically divide and economically conquer this great country.  I think about our hideously unjust wars against Muslims, and when I compare them to our fight seventy years ago against a genuine attempt at world conquest, I’m ashamed.  I think about the purposeful idealism of the people who helped found this country, and the modest maturity of George Washington, the first President, who insisted on limits to his own power.  I think those founders—outside of attempts to capitalize politically on their names--would be dismissed as rubes and radicals by people in Washington today.  Imperial Rome would not have accepted republican Rome, as republican Rome would not have recognized imperial Rome.

I think about how technology, and how the complexity, scale and speed of the world economy have grown beyond anything that group of 18th century men (even the irreverent Ben Franklin) could possibly have imagined, or designed their government for.  About how this country, initially a set of colonies, was founded as an experiment by people who were consciously rootless here.  I think that experiment, that rootlessness, and of course the largely unpopulated, spectacularly well-endowed continent, with large coastlines on two oceans, led very directly to the world prominence we enjoy today.  Our national ethic has always been one of seeking and using opportunity with cheerful self-confidence. 

Our results have been mixed.  We produced a federal Constitution, as a theory of government and as a concept in itself—a national government which is explicitly a contract, designed all at once as a unit—whose impact on world history is difficult to even estimate.  We have led the way to the industrial and technological marvels we know today.  We joined with England and Russia in defending the world against a genocidal maniac and a would-be Pacific empire.  However, our easy self-confidence has overlooked the environmental and social costs of our desperate profiteering.  It has overlooked our gradual change from defender of freedom to defender of our own privilege.  It fails to understand that many around the world now view us with hatred and fear far worse than our early fear of England.

I think we need a new Constitution.  One founded on recognizing the equality of sexes, races, religions, sexuality—of all people.  One founded on recognizing that we all humans share the same planet, and that our actions ultimately affect everyone.  One which allows people to continue seeking and using their own opportunities, and allows people to become rich, but which separates government from the power of money, the way our Constitution now separates government from the active military.  One which recognizes that this country, however powerful, is one in a community of sovereign peers.  We need a new Constitution which speaks to the hopes and realities of the growing generations.  That would make me truly proud on a Fourth of July.

Right now, it seems to me that national holidays like the Fourth of July try to hearken back to the golden age of the United States, from the mid-40’s to the mid-50’s.  Brick architecture, big cars, jazz, early rock & roll, even the rompous brass band marches which had been around for a long time already—reminiscence of these, even briefly, is to me an attempt to pull the covers over our eyes for a few minutes.  Fourth of July parades always leave me sadder.

I’m not saying, Do away with holidays, or the Fourth of July.  But I think that a time of fear and unrest like now requires a rededication of mind and will.  Instead of a continent filled with trees, wild animals, and sometimes antagonistic natives, we look out at a world to a large extent made by us—with roads, industry, pollution, colliding races, and omnipotent money—as a challenge.  We see societies suffering from the results of their own labor.  We need to accept the challenges of our own time.  (“What happened to the American Dream?” asked the darkly antiheroic Comedian in Watchmen.  “It came true.  We’re in it.”)  We need a new dream.  The old one is over.



I have moments of wishful thinking of that golden age, and more deeply, a great respect for those who came of age during it.  They carry some of the gold with them still.  Speaking to the first, one of Eva’s (and the whole family’s) favorite movies is The Polar Express.   It’s a child’s tale made gorgeously into a grand and complex tableau, about a young boy who discovers Christmas by going to Santa’s capital city.  The train itself and the city’s architecture might have come from the late 1800’s or early 20th century—a black, coal-fired steam engine thundering its way toward a brightly lit city of brick and cobblestone.  Frank Sinatra’s carols came floating thinly through loudspeakers in the empty halls, at one point the needle even skipping on the LP.  While the outsides of buildings were largely plain red brick with rows of windows, the insides were like train stations themselves, sleek and monumental cathedrals of brass, steel and stone.  I could easily imagine, in summertime, Rhapsody in Blue wafting through those speakers.  For that matter, I could easily imagine Summertime, When the Living is Easy floating through them too.

That city and its train and its music hearken straight back to our national golden age, and the decades which led to it, when this nation was still building itself up from the ground.  It gives me a wistful sense of irony to watch this movie—and I adore it along with Eva and Kate.  (Something tells me Eliot will too.  The way you know he’s going to like sugar, pizza and music.)

Speaking to the second, deeper sense of respect I have for others, I think of a two particular people.  First, when Kate and I were still living in Rhode Island, after we had sold the condo and moved to a small house near the water on Coolidge Street, the neighbor across the street from us was a fat old man named Frank. I slowly warmed up to him, especially when I saw how much he enjoyed Eva.  I initially had a father’s typical suspicion of someone I didn’t know near my child, but I quickly realized that any such fears of Frank were silly and misguided.  Frank is one of the sweetest and most teddybearish men I have ever known.  If Kate or I were out with our little girl—she was still somewhat new to walking at that point, and frequently across the street was as far as she got (and she loved Frank’s flowers)—and Frank was home, he would be sure to come out, say hello and chat.  Being old and home with his wife much of the time, without his own children and grandchildren visiting often, made him naturally glad for company.

Frank was also a veteran Marine.  I never asked him about it, but since World War II veterans are now in their 90’s, and Frank seemed more in his late 60’s or early 70’s, I assume he served in Korea.  He flew a United States flag on flagpole in his front yard, surrounded by roses.  And he was one of the very few people I have ever known who followed flag protocol.  It is to be flown only during daylight, be raised after dawn and be taken in before sunset, unless you shine a light on it while it is dark.  Frank kept a light on that flag every night—he even had it on a timer when he was on vacation.

The light bugged me a little bit, since it kept all of his hedges lit up and kept our whole yard a lot brighter than it would have been otherwise.  But I had nothing but respect for Frank’s respect for the flag.  Nowadays, that flags have become lapel pins and ornaments for car antennas and have generally been commercialized in all kinds of ways, I notice when veterans become upset with disrespect for the national ensign.  Frank showed such respect for it that I sometimes felt like saluting him when he was in his front yard tending the roses.

 I never learned the name of the second person.  I doubt I ever will.  But shortly after Kate and I had moved from Rhode Island up to Rumford Point in Maine, we were settling into our little rented farmhouse and cleaning things out.  (Well, I was cleaning things out, and she was preparing to give birth to Eliot.)  There was a big barn behind the house, mostly empty except for a few pickup trucks’ worth of garbage (and one large barrel with five dead squirrels who couldn’t escape once they entered—apparently curiosity is even more deadly to them than it is to cats).  So I had borrowed Dave’s truck and was bringing loads of garbage to the dump.  One of the pieces of garbage was a tattered old U.S. flag, ripped, faded and brown.  I simply tossed it in the back of the truck with the rest of the load and headed to the landfill transfer station. 

Once there, I was tossing various pieces of junk into the container box.  A group of three older men was standing about 20 feet away and talking amongst themselves as I threw the garbage into the disposal.  I picked up the flag, I walked over to the container and was about to throw it in.  One of the men came briskly up.

“Excuse me, I’ll take that,” he said to me, holding out his hand.

“I beg your pardon?” I responded, a bit startled.

“You were going to throw away that flag, yes?” he asked.

“Yes, I was.”

“I thought so.  I would’ve had to do something to you if you had.  I’ll dispose of it properly.”

“Um…okay, here you go.” I half-stammered, giving him the flag, but I was now curious.  “What’s the proper way to dispose of a flag?”

“By burning.”

“Oh…I had no idea.”

“I didn’t think you did.  It’s all right.”

I thanked him and was somewhat in awe as he walked away holding the flag.  Part of me envies his devotion.

Wednesday, July 04, 2012

08:15

As a small continuation to my post of last night: I’d been thinking of putting a maritime US flag—one of those with thirteen stars in a circle surrounding an anchor on the blue field instead of 50 stars—but I don’t think I will, in light of the flag protocol I was writing about.  I see myself making too many mistakes.  But something else, maybe…the Dartmouth lone pine, white on green, would be fun.  Or the red-on-yellow Scottish lion.  I’ll keep thinking about it.

It’s a fine morning here on the Gulf, fluffy cumulus clouds moving west as we head toward our next location at slightly over 4 kts.  Our ETA is 16:30, sooner if the tugs speed up and the rig doesn’t start bouncing too much.  There are still lazy 2-4 foot waves going by, enough for us to feel them.  But apparently, like in New England when we get a moist wind out of the east, there’s a low pressure system building in the Caribbean which is heading our way and will make things rough. I don’t relish the thought of spending another 4-5 days down here to do two or at most three more sonar scans—that will mean I’ve averaged one single scan per week—but this is my assignment.  I wonder how severe the storm has to be for us to evacuate the platform outright, as opposed to simply riding it out.

 16:45

We’re approaching our pin location—about a mile away—and the predicted storminess is nowhere to be seen.  Or actually, it’s already far to the west of us, in the form of a dramatic storm front which crossed our path shortly after sunset last night (while I was composing yesterday’s entry).  The front looked like a serrated line of clouds which dipped from about 1000 down to about 100 feet from the sea surface, with clear golden evening skies to the west and gloom to the east.  Behind it came the lightning and the rain, and soon the waves.  It was a pretty thrilling thunderstorm, all in all.  If I were to rank the ones I’ve seen and remember, it would be in the top 5.  In fact, why don’t I try to list the top 5 right now:

(1)    When I was maybe 7 or 8, one August up at Moosehead Lake, Maine.  Two thunderstorms collided and fought over the lake.  Lightning struck a tree near the cabins and blew our our lights, causing sparks to hit my dinner plate and burn my peas.
(2)   When I was maybe 3 or 4, one summer night in Moultonboro, NH.  The lightning was many different colors, including blue, red and green.
(3)   One summer at Hawk’s Nest Beach, Connecticut (there was usually one good thunderboomer every two weeks there).  Our family, as usual, had gathered on the porch to watch the show.  Some fool was out in the storm, trying to motor back to port in his sailboat, while lightning was striking the Long Island Sound all around him.
(4)   October 1989, in Paestum, on the west coast of Italy.  A squall blew in from the Mediterranean, and the storm clouds passed overhead and  suddenly nose-dived into the hills to the east as the sky exploded in thunder and rain.
(5)   Last night.  The furrowed rows of clouds reminded me of the storm in Paestum.
(6)   One summer in Moultonboro again, while I was at work in the boat house at the condominium.  A squall blew over so we went to the boathouse to sweep out the bat turds.  I was right at the big doors on the end when a bolt of lightning passed right in front of my face.  All the air turned pink and the bolt was bright white.

Not my storm--just an inernet image.  But a very similar view.
I (and about 10 other guys) were all on the eastern decks of the rig, trying to get photos of the lightning with our cell phones.  I tried about five or six times but the photos were all crap.  I had to settle for a photo of the cloud front (which hopefully I’ll be able to add to this blog later, once I’m in the USA and not paying crazy rates for phone data transfers).

I was given an official-looking, flame-retardant coverall as my onboard work outfit.  Kate’s mother whipped up a homemade version for me with a red Dickies coverall and the reflective patches cannibalized from a reflective vest (thanks, Ma), but the rig manager was making fun of me about it so it was actually a bit of a relief to get the company-supplied version.  And I broke it in for real today, since I’m now covered in grime after wrestling with the sonar cable for an hour.

At some point this afternoon I’ll be making another scan, and the water is roughly 180 feet deep.  To be on the safe side I unspooled about 270 feet and then had to coil it neatly down on deck so it wouldn’t kink and snarl as we hand-lower the unit into the water.  I was trying to do it alone, unsuccessfully.  One of the Mexicans heard me dropping F-bombs on the forward deck and came up to help.  I plan to learn Spanish but of course I already know “muchos gracias”. 

Since the water is so calm, it’s possible we’ll achieve our final position tonight.  I’m hopeful again that I’ll be able to head back to shore tomorrow, but as is usual out here, I’ll find out when  I find out.  On my first hitch, with the Tom Jobe, we learned that the crew boat was on its way to pick us up when we saw it one mile off the stern and headed our way.

This time, however, we’re not pinned a few miles offshore of Dos Bocas.  We’re in the oil field off of Del Carmen, roughly 90 nm from shore, a 6-8 hour boat ride.  And we’ll be going back to the Pemex facility, where I’ve heard the officials are ready to confiscate any personal electronics.  I knew it was likely I was coming through this place on this trip, but I decided that I’d take the chance, and see how difficult it is to bring my own PC back onshore.  (I’m relying partly on the fact that I’ll be off the rig before they do any drilling, so I won’t have had the chance to steal any well data, which I assume is the main thing they’re worried about.)  Even so, if I lose the computer, phooey on me.  I didn’t bring all my external drives and IPod this time around, at least.  So I was only about 60% dumb, not 100%. 

Monday, July 2, 2012

The Rig Diaries


Wednesday, June 27, 2012

11:30

Roughly an hour ago we cleared the jetties to the port of Brownsville, Texas.  The mobile jackup rig Noble Sam Noble is now headed south along the coast to Dos Bocas, Mexico, where it will pin and await the drilling crew before moving on site and getting to the business of drilling.  Barring weather problems, this move should go just like the last one, in the Tom Jobe.  That is to say, six to seven days of being pulled slowly by three tugboats along the Mexican shelf.  From Brownsville to Dos Bocas, by straight line across the Bay of Campeche, is 900 km (485 nautical miles).  Skirting the coastline about ten to twenty miles out, the trip is 1200 km (660 nautical miles).  We take the longer route in case bad weather forces us to run for the shallows and jack up.

We’d been idling in the port of Brownsville for about two weeks, during which time I went home and then came back again, because of some tropical storms.  First was Hurricane Carlotta, which ran west across southern Mexico, and then was Tropical Storm Debbie, which formed in the eastern Gulf, loitered about for the better part of a week, and then drifted back east.  Generally speaking these storms are detectable systems 2-3 days before they become dangerous storms, so there’s a certain amount of lead time, say for a rig like this one, to escape to safer waters.  But oil companies, and more specifically their insurers, don’t play games of chicken with rigs worth a hundred million dollars or more.

My only gripes so far are pretty minor, considering the overall ease of this job (I’m on standby until the rig pins, and then I do a sonar scan of the bottom).  First is that I still have colitis, though on the severity spectrum I’m very much on the mild side.  But I do take some maintenance medication, to keep inflammation down and my immune system at bay.  Due to the herky-jerk nature of my home-and-back-again storm-related travel, one of my prescriptions could only be filled after I’d returned to Texas.  So Kate dutifully got it filled and overnighted it to the port office down here—and now my meds are languishing in an envelope, somewhere, ins somebody’s office or possibly a distribution center.  Had there been more time before leaving port I would have gone to the office myself and searched.  I may never find out where it went—it’s a little like the end of Raiders of the Lost Ark.  Second is, I got knocked out of my bright, airy perch on top of the rig house, where I’d taken up station with my computer.  The rig mover and rig manager both want the space now, so I ceded it.  That in itself means nothing, except that I do need at least some access to sunlight while I work, otherwise I might really go Overlook Hotel out here.  So I’ve just moved into the office that the mover and manager vacated…problem solved.  Except that they took the coffee maker with them.

Last remark for now.  The hardest part of the early school year at UNH was maintaining my energy level, when I was commuting back and forth several times a week, on short rest.  But what’s become the most difficult now is listening to my little girl Eva cry over the phone that she misses me.  It’s hard not to hear that and curse every decision I’ve made that brought me to the point of working for weeks at a time away from home.  Kate and I are adults, and I know that Kate works very hard to conceal her anxieties from me when she sees the need.  (Except for when she admits to nearly driving off the road in tears after dropping me off at the airport—so we won’t do that again.)  Eliot is just a baby and pretty much his entire world is his mother, so he’s fine.  But Eva is a child, and children don’t understand.  They’re not supposed to understand.  They shouldn’t have to understand.

14:40

We’re still within sight of land, though more distantly.  As the afternoon goes on it will drop below the horizon and we’ll be over the deeper part of the continental shelf.  It’s surprisingly temperate out here, for being at 25º latitude.  Of course, it’s always cooler on the water than on land, but I was surprised at just how comfortable I was my last time out on deck.

To pass the time, I’m either practicing math (which I absolutely must do), or indulging in a little reading.  I like to challenge myself, and my current challenge is William Blake.  He was the most enigmatic of the English Romantic poets, active in the late 1700’s and early 1800’s.  Blake distinguished himself—violently—from his contemporaries in a number of ways.  He wasn’t content to simply write words on a page, and let a printer typeset and publish them.  Blake engraved most of his poems into copper plates and printed them himself as illustrated, or illuminated, volumes.  Particularly notable among his illustrated editions are the Songs of Innocence & Experience, the Marriage of Heaven and Hell, Milton, and Jerusalem.  The latter two, along with Europe and America, are among his prophetic works.

William Blake is most popularly known for his Songs of Innocence and Experience, and specifically, for two poems in them, two of the most famous in the English language:

From Songs of Innocence, The Lamb:

Little Lamb, who made thee
Dost thou know who made thee,
Gave thee life, and bid thee feed
By the stream and o'er the mead;
Gave thee clothing of delight,
Softest clothing, woolly, bright;
Gave thee such a tender voice,
Making all the vales rejoice?
Little Lamb, who made thee?
Dost thou know who made thee?

Little Lamb, I'll tell thee;
Little Lamb, I'll tell thee:
He is called by thy name,
For He calls Himself a Lamb
He is meek, and He is mild,
He became a little child.
I a child, and thou a lamb,
We are called by His name.
Little Lamb, God bless thee!
Little Lamb, God bless thee!

And from Songs of Experience, The Tyger:

Tyger, tyger, burning bright
In the forests of the night,
What immortal hand or eye
Could frame thy fearful symmetry?

In what distant deeps or skies
Burnt the fire of thine eyes?
On what wings dare he aspire?
What the hand dare seize the fire?

And what shoulder and what art
Could twist the sinews of thy heart?
And, when thy heart began to beat,
What dread hand and what dread feet?

What the hammer? what the chain?
In what furnace was thy brain?
What the anvil? what dread grasp
Dare its deadly terrors clasp?

When the stars threw down their spears,
And watered heaven with their tears,
Did he smile his work to see?
Did he who made the lamb make thee?

Tyger, tyger, burning bright
In the forests of the night,
What immortal hand or eye
Dare frame thy fearful symmetry?

*           *           *

Blake is less well known for his prophetic works.  He saw himself as a prophet, a social outcast laboring to show humanity how to live.  My  best understanding of Blake’s vision is to use a modern scientific analogue: the theory of the Big Bang.  This theory holds, that before time began—and time itself is about 10 billion years old—the entire universe was a singularity, what we think of as a black hole.  Only there was no space around it, and everything we now know—all matter and all energy—was contained in this singularity.  And then, bang.  The singularity exploded, producing space, energy, and matter.  Since then the universe has been expanding outward—like the expanding cloud of an explosion—and gradually cooling.  Matter and energy remain constant—or, as Einstein would say, matter is energy, so energy remains constant—but thermodynamics has taken over.  Highly concentrated sources of energy are dissipating and spreading out: the universe is running down, so to speak.  All the fossil fuels we burn on Earth to carry on our business are just stored forms of solar energy—partially decayed plant matter--and the Sun is running down too.  So our human economy is no exception to this.

In Blake’s terms, the universe has fallen from its original, singular state.  When everything existed all together, undifferentiated, not subject to analysis and study, the Universe was pure and whole.  But the bang—the fall—changed all that, and now the Universe has many parts, all flying away from each other, all cooling down, all subject to separate analysis by humans like us.  So the human psychology is just the remnant fragments of the original man—Albion in his poem Jerusalem—which must be reunited into their singular, undifferentiated state for man to be restored.  Male and female are unnatural subdivisions of the original man.  Blake identifies the rational faculty as Satan, itself not something to be shunned, but rather folded back into the whole.  In man’s original state, religion, science and art are effortless acts of inspired imagination.  Love is spontaneous for all things, not activated by sexual desire.  To rise from the fallen state is to see everything imaginatively as part of and within yourself.  This is why, contrary to what’s normally supposed, the Songs of Innocence, talking about a childlike imagination animating the entire world, actually detail a higher consciousness than the Songs of Experience, which deal with the resigned state of an unimaginative adult.

This much I’ve gleaned from commentaries, and from Blake himself.  But Blake surrounds these central concepts with a swirling array of characters, allegories for human psychology, historical periods and people, geographical locations, and more.  A few examples: the character Orc is identified with the Freudian concept of the Id, or animalistic desire.  Orc is by no means inherently evil: he’s more of a relentless upsetter of order, and not at all evil.  Urizen (“you risen”, get it? Clever) is the rational faculty, the most evil component of the human makeup.  Coban (the philosopher Francis Bacon, with some letters mixed up), Hand and Hyle (Isaac Newton and philosopher John Locke) are Urizen’s trustiest aides, shackling man to a rational reality.  Los (“soul” backwards--isn’t Blake tricky?) is the human soul, struggling to pacify all of his constituent parts in order to restore man—Albion—to his unfallen state.

So Blake’s a mess, pretty much.  That is to say, his prophetic works are intentionally dense, full of variety and hard to penetrate, with many references in many directions all at once.   In a sense time never passes, because all events might be taking place simultaneously.  There is no trace of a clear chronology.  Blake’s prophecies bear more than a passing resemblance to Joyce’s Finnegans Wake, really.  You might go so far as to say that Finnegan and Albion are the same.  You might.

So this is my challenge!  Since it’s hard to stay motivated over a calculus book for several hours a day, I have this other, even more difficult, thing to contend with.  Besides, I love poetry.

Thursday, June 28, 2012

13:20

This rig move—hard to call it a voyage—is reminding me of two years ago, after I’d come home from the hospital, recovering from a severe episode of colitis.  I was unemployed then, though in contact already with Entrix, for whom I would work across the summer as an acoustician.  Mostly, though, I was hopped up to near-insanity on prednisone, a steroid which reduces inflammation (the main goal), and also does other steroid-type things like make a person more irritable, destroy the sex drive, and give a person unnatural amounts of energy.  From May through the end of June, I think I averaged about 2 hours of sleep a night, if that.  Every second or third night I simply wouldn’t sleep at all.  Usually I was coming up to bed around 3:30, lying fitfully awake for 45 minutes or so, and then dropping off until 4:30 or 5. 

So I put the nighttime hours to the best use I could think of : I read.  And I picked the one writer I felt guiltiest about not having read yet: Thoreau.  Thoreau’s thinking is free of pity, full of wonder, relying more on his own senses and imagination than anything he’d read.  His writing is a confirmation and a challenge, as the best writing should be.

So I’m using this enforced confinement aboard the Noble Sam Noble—no phone, no internet connection, nothing outside except the sea and the sky—to do some reading I’ve put off for too long.  William Blake is a very difficult poet to wade into.  People commonly divide his lyrical works, like Songs of Innocence and Experience, from his prophecies, and even somewhat to look on the prophecies as misguided and possibly unhealthy aberrations of his later life.  Even the Songs of Experience are sometimes considered to be a sign of Blake’s descent from his earlier celebration of innocence, of his steadily growing disillusionment with life, and incipient depression bordering on madness.  These opinions, however, are nothing but laziness wrapped in ignorance.  All of Blake’s work forms an imaginative whole, founded on the primacy of imagination.  Innocence is simply a higher imaginative state, more childlike and informed by the mind, than experience, a weary resignation to the cruelty of existence.  Both states can exist within the same mind, but innocence, being more creative, is superior.  The goal of all creative effort is to reestablish the state of childlike imagination—though more sophisticated, perhaps, in adulthood, but really no different.

I’m finding this more cathartic even than my reading of Thoreau a few years ago.  2012 was the year of my twentieth reunion at Dartmouth (which I avoided).  I’m largely ashamed of how I became a drunk, accomplished nothing, and made no lasting close friends there.  These past few years, while hardly at all able to economically support my own family, this humiliation in me has burned all the hotter.  And as I look in rage and fear at the largely successful efforts of a few very wealthy people to paralyze and murder this democracy known as the United States, I fear not only for my own family but for the world in general.  I fear for the world even more than when I was an adolescent terrified of nuclear war during the Reagan years.

Blake lived and wrote during the times of the American and French Revolutions.  Two of his major prophecies—America and Europe—were inspired by and devoted to them.  He also watched the French Revolution devolve into a horrible bath of blood resulting in tyranny worse than before.  When I look at the disenfranchisement, economic misery and cruel austerities of people and nations today, I see anxiety and pain not unlike what drove people to revolution almost two hundred fifty years ago.  So, I thought, I’ll turn to Blake.  His work was at once intensely psychological—perhaps answering my own internal wars—and occupied with the cruelty of society.

I’ve found a gateway into my own memories (“spectres”, forms of man’s fallen state, in Blake’s world).  And this is a good thing because in Blake, as the soul must draw its spectres into itself in order to become complete, so my task is to understand my choices of twenty-two and twenty-three years ago, and harmonize them with the person I am now.  In Blake’s terms, I am to welcome that spectre back into myself and be healed.

Nearly sleepless nights this winter and spring, as I thought bitterly about teachers I had and friends I alienated, I learned nothing so much as just how deep and strong this current of feeling was in me, and therefore I could come to suspect how much this bitterness had been affecting my judgment even up till now.  Counseling following my mother’s death taught me that old trauma has large effects on daily life later.  The anger I was directing toward colleagues at the time was due to the grief over my father’s death, nearly ten years prior.  And the disdain and suspicion which has become such a natural part of my manner now, I felt was the result of what I’d done decades ago.  Disgust with and distrust in myself led to my projecting them onto others.  I was unable to make friends.

The emotional question is larger than “I coulda been an actor” or some other such silly thought.  Most of us, within limits of our ability, can be anything.  During my senior year at high school, I went to a one-day theater seminar at Hanover, held in Dartmouth’s Hopkins Center.  We saw a play, toured the center, and had a question-and-answer session with a professional actor.  I came away enthralled, convinced I’d found my career.  I told my parents so over dinner.

Silence.

“Well, Michael…” my mother answered, “…if you want to throw your education away and do something like that, go ahead, but don’t expect any help from us.”

My father remained silent, and looked at me.

I never mentioned it again.  Even when my creative writing teacher told me, after I’d spent the spring writing a play, that I should do everything I could to get it produced at Dartmouth, I was already shrinking in fear.  I went to Dartmouth convinced that I was the least intelligent, least talented person there.  I had probably already made up my mind to simply follow the path of least resistance, like water moving downhill.

That path led me to Rome, on the archeological foreign study program.  I didn’t care much for Roman archeology, but I was invited to come back as the TA two years later.  Had I known myself better, I would have refused, for the TAship interested me even less than the program itself had.  Had I had more courage, I would have begun then to find my own way without advice.

Instead, I agreed.  When I returned to campus that winter, I arranged my semester schedule to allow for my senior fall to be free of classes.  And since I’d missed the fall on campus, with the new freshmen and all my own classmates there, I panicked.  “Where will I find friends?” I asked myself.  With my entire college career seemingly decided for me by a professor, having been too timid to earnestly follow any of my own interests, and feeling friendless, my heart broke and I gave up.  I joined a fraternity and proceeded to shuffle through two and a half more years of agony.

By joining the fraternity I turned my back on all of the things I considered important: compassion, introspection, love, and honesty.  Instead, I tried to learn the ways of the house. It’s not surprising I was a complete failure as a fraternity brother, a bitter drunk with no sense of proportion in how I acted or dealt with people.  I had shut off my higher faculties and relied only on the lowest.

In short, I betrayed myself.

I think it’s necessary for a person to indulge his or her self-destructive tendencies.  Self-knowledge does not come without great pain.  My main regrets of college are making few friends, and learning nothing useful while I was there (except how to split wood and light a fire, I suppose). 

I had a few romantic hearbreaks along the way, but they were largely of the puppy-love sort, where I hadn’t actually been in a relationship long, or at all, with the woman.  The heartbreak of my sophomore year did not involve a woman, it only involved my hope.  It was so deep and so quiet—my last remaining bit of nerve, which had been shaven away to nearly nothing by two years of cowardice--that I wasn’t aware of any symptoms until years later, and only now have I diagnosed it.  I had a few mild heartbreaks over women, of course.  There were girls I was interested in at Dartmouth, and after, whom I think back on wistfully.  And while I thought I was in love once or twice, I never found out much about it.

Kate is the one woman I know I’ve deeply loved.  From the very beginning—and at this point, I’m not too sure I’ll get back to that Pup & Ben series—from the beginning, my affection for her was of a very different sort from what I’d felt for other women.  It wasn’t a loud, half-desperate infatuation.  This attraction was much quieter, and might simply show itself in how glad I was to see her again, and how sad to leave.  (This hasn’t changed, with me heading out to sea for a few weeks at a time for work.)  And since then, the love between us has not changed or diminished one bit—we’ve simply gained more knowledge of each other.  (Like, she knows I like for her to wear boots.)

“The road of excess leads to the palace of wisdom,” is one of the Proverbs of Hell in Blake’s Marriage of Heaven and Hell.  (Let’s just say for right now, that Blake had an unconventional cosmology.  Heaven and Hell aren’t quite what they’re described to be in church.)  In my case, the excess has been twenty-two years of psychological self-abuse.

 What this means for my life now, I don’t know.  I still have a wife and two children, and the world is still a dangerous place.  I still work in ocean engineering (and an oil rig isn’t really the calmest of places).  But I do know that the spectre is within me now—I comprehend the memory--and I sense that the nerve which withered away and snapped years ago has grown back whole.

Friday, June 29, 2012

06:00

I don’t have to get up with the crew for tour (pronounced “tower”—it means shift) at 6 AM.  The medic is the same way—he and I are outside hires, independent contractors, not required to be on the rig crew’s schedule.  Yesterday, by his own admission, he slept until 11.  (I slept till 8.)  But I’d rather get up early.  It makes me feel a bit better about myself, that I’m not just loafing.  Things don’t get busy or noisy around here, since there are fewer than 20 of us (and the rig could accommodate perhaps 80 or 100) for this move.  And even when there are more guys, quiet and courtesy to the ones sleeping is stressed—i.e, don’t yell, run or slam doors.  (Besides, one tour lasts 12 hours—6 to 6, generally—so most guys awake are out on the drilling floor working.  Or, if Ken the rig manager is to be believed, quietly playing poker somewhere off tour.)

Ken stopped by my new commandeered office—the drilling office, I think, because I can see some BOP (blowout preventer) controls in the corner—and we talked a bit last night.  Ken is a softspoken guy, barrel-chested, balding with a horseshoe of hair, and a dainty set of reading glasses perched either on his nose or sitting up on his skull.  He stopped at the office door last night and asked me about what all the math I was doing was for (practicing for next year’s comprehensive exam), and then we talked about work in the 80’s, after the Iran revolution led to major conservation efforts around the world.  (This was to change with the advent of the SUV in the 90’s.)  

The recession during the Reagan years was much milder than now—we are in a borderline depression—and, as an aside, the bank crash then was a scratch on the cheek compared to the mortal wound of now.  But there was a downturn, and in the 80’s Ken turned to carpentry, traveling to different states with his father for work, and leaving his family at home for weeks or over a month at a time.  That’s easily comparable to work at sea, because of the indefinite nature of work periods.  Oil rig employees are generally on a rotation—7 days on, 7 days off, or 14 and 14, or 28 and 28 (offshore it’s generally 28 and 28)—and it doesn’t change much—the most that might happen is they evacuate for a hurricane.  Blokes like me who work on boats are subject primarily to the weather, and as we’ve all seen this week, it can change quickly and hold things up indefinitely. 

I like Ken.  In an unfamiliar environment like a drilling rig (one I don’t wish to get all that familiar with, frankly), what I ask for primarily in the folks I deal with is that they be straightforward.  So far, all three rig managers I’ve known have been just that: low-key, earnest men.  On the whole, I like the people I’ve found out here (with a few easily overlooked exceptions).  Even Ronnie the cook is a very nice guy—I just can’t understand 75% of what he says.  Much like that unintelligible bounty hunter in Samurai Jack (the obvious comedy of the thing).  

The man.
The pig. (And friends--sorry for such a blurry picture)
Not to stray too far off the path here, since this is a family blog, but of course, conversation on a rig frequently turns to sex—and it isn’t respectful or thoughtful, either.  I’m threatened by none of it.  I’m a man too, after all.  But one of the more amusing aspects of life is how we see characters—whether people we’ve known, or even fictional—whom we’ve seen and heard before, appear again in front of us.  I’d think most everyone (among the millions! Ha.  Maybe half a dozen?  Maybe) who read this blog has known this to happen as well: you meet someone who physically, and even in demeanor, resembles someone you’ve already known.  Like certain physiques and habits of posture lend themselves to particular ways of speaking or acting. You meet the person and right away, at a glance, feel you know them already.  In this case, it’s a fictional reference again (like the bounty hunter pig).  One of the cooks on this rig sounds almost exactly—in pitch and intonation—like the evil cow on “Aqua Teen Hunger Force”. 

You are forgiven for having no idea what that show is.  It’s one of the more inane late-night cartoons I used to watch.  The main characters are a floating box of French fries named Frylock, who can shoot lightning from his eyes (and does so every once in a while); a vanilla shake named Shake (a selfish and mean-spirited jerk); the meatball Meatwad (childish, harmless and stupid); and their fat, ugly and libido-driven neighbor Carl.  The whole show has a hip-hop musical setting, and their adventures are roughly as dumb as you might expect.  (I like it a lot, and one day I’ll break down and buy the DVDs.) 
Carl.

One of their nemeses is Sir Loin, an evil cow condemned to hell, who occasionally whips up a scheme that messes them all up.  This cow speaks—screams, really—with a high-pitched, angry, black voice.  And it just so happens that one of the cooks sounds just like him.  Heck, I close my eyes, and it might be the cow speaking, including the subject matter (though no longer PG).  The cook last night was the one doing most of the talking about sex.

I love it when characters appear in front of me.  Even when it’s a malevolent talking cow.

The evil Sir Loin.                                                     Fear the fries.
Anyhow, dawn is finally approaching, at quarter to seven AM.  That is still the hardest thing to get used to, down here in the tropical zone (as I’m pretty sure we now are below 23º 30’ latitude): the days don’t get very long.  Length of day varies more as you travel toward the poles, and less as you travel toward the equator.  I’m now more than ¾ of the way toward the equator from the north pole, so the length of day doesn’t vary all that much from summer to winter.  Heck, the sun is still close to its northward limit—we’re barely a week past the solstice--so it’s practically overhead right now.

As the sun comes up, the sky turns from black to deep blue to azure, and the highest rainclouds reflect the rosy morning light, while the ones lower down are still blue-gray.  It’s a pretty stupendous view, except for the jackup legs and drilling derrick.

20:46

Another day past.  They seem to both stretch out and be compressed as they add up.  Seven consecutive days in this metal box with occasional sunlight—either through a window or when I go out on deck for a few minutes—and very little communication.  Given all of the horrendous news from Washington DC this week, it’s not altogether bad that I don’t see any, but the confinement is oppressive.  To read attentively, I need to break it up every now and then with some conversation or something active.  There are some good guys aboard this rig but I might be the only one here with a college education.

The rig itself is making good enough time.  We’re almost halfway to our destination, Dos Bocas.  Our rough coordinates around 17:00 today were 21º 15’ N, 96º 35’ W.  Three more full days.  The Noble Sam Noble rides harder than the Noble Tom Jobe did.  Smaller waves—right now, surf is running 3-5’—make the rig rock slightly, groan and yank on the tugboat cables.  The tugs themselves don’t seem to be having as easy a time of it as on the last move.  With the Tom Jobe, the three tugs remained evenly spaced, perhaps 60 or 70 yards apart from each other, and maybe 250 yards ahead.  Pulling the Sam Noble, however, the center and portside (left, when facing forward) tugs seem to frequently edge close together, while the starboard tug remains spilt farther off to the right. 

I’m not sure if the starboard tug is just less powerful than the other two, or one of the captains is steering lazily (which I doubt), or, most likely, the whole rig is crabbing a little bit.  (“Crabbing” is a term used by surveyors, and possibly other maritime folks.  It refers to a current coming athwart the boat’s intended track, and forcing the boat to move diagonally—to move somewhat sideways, like a crab.  It’s a common feature of surveying in harbors where tides are active.)  I suspect there’s a current, possibly the wind too, forcing the rig out of line and making us all crab a bit.  Before we left port I did a little online searching for information on surface currents in the Bay of Campeche, but there’s very little.  NOAA doesn’t work much in Mexican waters.

Now that the light is almost gone from the sky, the tugs out front can be seen by their running lights.  When towing anything, a vessel has to run a vertical series of red-white-red lights, to warn other vessels to give it a very wide berth.  Of course, in this case, the tow is not a submerged sonar fish but a gigantic lighted drilling rig 40 times the size of the boats.  But even so, it’s wise to warn others that there’s a tow cable there.

We passed through a small storm system last night, and skirted another this morning, but we seem to be heading into another mild system now.  As the sun descended the sea ahead was foggy, and I could feel the warm dampness on my skin.  Now that it’s dark, the waxing moon is obscured by scalelike clouds and the tug lights are obscured by swirling mist and spray.  I wouldn’t be surprised to hear thunder tonight.

I took the evening off of reading and math—I was more or less fried—and wandered down to the TV room to see if anyone was watching a movie.  They were about 20 minutes into My Cousin Vinnie.  Four things I was reminded of by watching that film: (1) I really like it; (2) Marisa Tomei is one of my favorite actresses (I’m almost completely ignorant of the stars of the last six or seven years or so); (3) Joe Pesci is really funny when he’s not playing a murderous antihero, like in Goodfellas or Casino; and (4) Ralph Macchio is a wuss.  His acting career had less impact than Matthew Broderick’s, and at least Broderick had an “I-can-briefly-fake-being-a-good-actor”-type role in Glory.  Ralph?  Nada.

Sunday, July 1, 2012

08:24

Our current rough position 18º 54’ N, 94º 33’ W.  Our destination is approximately 19º N, 93º 13’ W.  So we basically have 1º 20’ to traverse, or 148 km (80 nm).  At 5.5 knots—the speed we’ve more or less maintained throughout this trip—we’ll reach our destination, Dos Bocas, Mexico, in about 15 hours, or sometime near midnight.  

It’s a fine morning, with a stiff warm breeze out of the east-northeast of what feels 10-15 kts.  There are plenty of waves rocking the rig, some out of the east with the wind, the larger, longer swells decidedly more from the north.  I think the swells are the remains of tropical storm Debbie.  But the weather report also predicts rising winds throughout today and tonight, topping out around 20 kts.  I wonder if I’ll be dropping my gear in the wee hours of the morning.  I guess I wouldn’t be surprised.

Today is national election day in Mexico, so the immigration and customs officials won’t be dropping in via helicopter.  This rig doesn’t have any candy on it that I’ve seen, so unless there’s a stash specifically for the Mexican officials somewhere, they won’t be getting any.  Just as well, too, that they won’t be trying to land a chopper on the pad with the rig moving like this.  These things are about as sluggish as you might expect in the water, though the hull is very much designed for transport. 

The whole hull is basically in the shape of an arrowhead, with the weight distributed reasonably evenly (the helipad extending so far out beyond the bow helps offset the massive weight of the drilling apparatus in the stern).  Though the overall design is quite clever, worthy of the creativity people in the oil industry have shown over the years, it’s still not the smoothest of rides when waves get up.  The whole hull shudders and lurches and booms as water slaps the steel and swirls turbulently on all wides.  As I’ve stood on deck watching the blue water slide by the hull, I’ve often wondered what one of those cables would do if it snapped.  If it snapped closer to the rig, it would hurt the tug more; if it snapped closer to the tug, it’d hurt the rig more, likely slicing through a few decks and some of the quarters.  Pleasant thoughts while under tow at sea.

15:00

The wind has increased and the seas are building, so the tugs have cut their speed somewhat and our ETA at Dos Bocas is now 06:00 instead of midnight.  It’s unclear whether the rig will be staying at the port for more outfitting, or will be moving immediately out to the drilling location, in which case I’ll be staying aboard for the last leg.  It’s now my ninth day aboard the Sam Noble, and I’m very eager to leave.  Walking outside along the rails for a few minutes is not enough to offset being in the office reading or practicing math all day, and I’d really enjoy some conversation and companionship.  I guess this counts as my “Get me off this damn boat!” entry. 

18:35

ETA Dos Bocas is still first light.  It’s clear that we’re drawing closer to land because there’s an increased amount of flotsam in the water—driftwood and weeds (I’m not sure what kind of plant) ripped up from the shore or seafloor and rafted along on the current.  I’ve gotten extremely impatient of confinement aboard this rig.  The regular crew is upset as well, since their hitches have all been extended by a week or two, but without double-time pay because of a clause in the contract: since the rig has moved into another country’s waters—Mexico—the clock has reset on their double-time counter.  The poor guys are being worked 15-18 hours a day, and no one’s complaining too loudly (at least in my hearing), but the lack of morale is pretty obvious.

One grim thing I do find amusing is a part of the daily safety meetings (twice daily, once before the start of each tour, at 05:30 and 17:30).  That is the stern preacherly/sheeplike congregational dynamic of the Safety Updates.  The rig manager for that tour goes through a list of the particular tasks or aspects of scheduling for this rig (such as tonight, when Gary told the night tour guys about the 1-2 week stay), and reiterates a few platitudes (be careful about footing, don’t work alone).  And then he, or someone else, will read the company-wide daily safety bulletin, detailing reported mishaps from anywhere around the globe. 

Today’s bulletin featured two items, one a lost-time accident and the other a potential accident.   The room takes on a particular hush, and the reader assumes an especially grave and monitory tone reading out the day’s reported incidents.  The first occurred on a rig in the Mideast, where a tool (an instrument or pipe-maintenance tool) got stuck in the drilling pipe.  The rig manager had lost patience, come out of the office, grabbed a hammer and started  wailing away at the top of the tool.  It promptly came unstuck and flew out of the pipe, bruising his head and breaking his femur.  The rig manager, on top of being seriously injured, was summarily dismissed.

Now that’s not a funny story.  It’s emblematic of the real physical danger involved in drilling through rock to find pressurized gas and oil.  Read through a history of the oilfield and you’re likely to come across several anecdotes of field supervisors taking a similarly hands-on approach to a problem, successfully solving the problem and later being celebrated for it.  There’s a certain culture of machismo out here, though much less now, I suspect, than in days before.  (But ignorant machismo seems to have figured largely in such disasters as the 2008 financial crash and the Deepwater Horizon explosion.) 

In the safety meeting, however, stories like that are received with an even deeper religious sense than “there but for the grace of God go I.”  Every man on the rig knows that some kind of small problem could suddenly become a major accident, where his own first instincts could be the perfectly wrong response.  Nobody is fully on their guard at all times—it’s impossible, and unsafe, to be in such a hairtrigger state for very long.  A certain amount of relaxation is essential for working in a crowded, dirty, noisy environment like this.  But the men who hear these safety updates take them in with an almost childlike simplicity.  Now these are reasonably rough men, who drop plenty of F-bombs and whose entire senses of humor focus on sex.  But they’re also men accustomed to being told what to do, so warnings like these bulletins have a noticeable effect on their demeanors. “Be careful or you’ll lose your leg and lose your job.”  A sound enough warning on a drill rig, to be sure, but also the kind of fear-based authority you’d expect in place like this.

Monday, July 02, 2012

10:15

We arrived at the interim pin location off of Dos Bocas, Mexico, at 06:00.  I’d already begun setting up the sonar, and at 07:30 we dropped it in the water (using one of the big cranes—that certainly made things easier), did the scan—all clear—and now here we sit, waiting for customs and immigration, waiting to hear from Noble about the next steps, waiting for anything.  I don’t know if other nations, or even American exploration companies, are this sluggish and disorganized.  I noticed the Noble Tom Jobe, the rig I was on last, still pinned and doing nothing here in the bay, from over two weeks ago.  My client tells me that I’m to stay on board because we’ll be moving out to the drill site later today, while the rig manager is making plans for the rig to be here at least until Wednesday.  There’s nothing for me to do but wait, and not grow overly frustrated.

It’d be easier if phone calls from here to the US weren’t so expensive.

16:45





Perhaps working on an oil rig, even as a standby sonar operator, isn’t the best line of work for me.  The frustration of being cooped up and of plans remaining vague brings out a very strong vein of profanity in my personality.  (For the record, I didn’t swear much at all until I enlisted in the Naval Reserves in 1999.)  Version 1 of the plan, per my client at 8 this morning, was that the rig would immediately move out to the drill site, where I’d do another scan and then be done.  Version 2   of the plan, per the rig manager at 8 this morning, was that the rig would stay near the coast, I’d get off, and then the exploration company would send aboard its own sonar equipment and staff.  Without any way to reconcile the different versions, I could only wait, as the wind slowly picks up and the waves steadily grow.